How I Found Livingstone - Henry M. Stanley (best ereader for comics txt) 📗
- Author: Henry M. Stanley
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the bay, that the easternmost channel was about six yards broad,
and about ten feet deep, but very sluggish. We had thus examined
each of its three mouths, and settled all doubts as to the Rusizi
being an effluent or influent. It was not necessary to ascend
higher, there being nothing about the river itself to repay
exploration of it.
The question, “Was the Rusizi an effluent or an influent?” was
answered for ever. There was now no doubt any more on that point.
In size it was not to be compared with the Malagarazi River,
neither is it, or can it be, navigable for anything but the smallest
canoes. The only thing remarkable about it is that it abounds in
crocodiles, but not one hippopotamus was seen; which may be taken
as another evidence of its shallowness. The bays to the east of
the Rusizi are of the same conformation as those on the west.
Carefully judging from the width of the several bays from point
to point, and of the several spits which separate them, the breadth
of the lake may be said to be about twelve or fourteen miles. Had
we contented ourselves with simply looking at the conformation,
and the meeting of the eastern and western ranges, we should have
said that the lake ended in a point, as Captain Speke has sketched
it on his map. But its exploration dissolved that idea. Chamati
Hill is the extreme northern termination of the western range,
and seems, upon a superficial examination, to abut against the Ramata
mountains of the eastern range, which are opposite Chamati; but a
valley about a mile in breadth separates the two ranges, and
through this valley the Rusizi flows towards the lake.* Though
Chamati terminates the western range, the eastern range continues
for miles beyond, north-westerly. After its issue from this broad
gorge, the Rusizi runs seemingly in a broad and mighty stream,
through a wide alluvial plain, its own formation, in a hundred
channels, until, approaching the lake, it flows into it by three
channels only, as above described.
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* After the patient investigation of the North end of the Lake,
and satisfying ourselves by personal observation that the Rusizi
ran into the Lake, the native rumor which Sir Samuel Baker brought
home that the Tanganika and the Albert N’Yanza have a water
connection still finds many believers!
______________
I should not omit to state here, that though the Doctor and I have
had to contend against the strong current of the Rusizi River, as
it flowed swift and strong INTO the Tanganika, the Doctor still
adheres to the conviction that, whatever part the Rusizi plays,
there must be an outlet to the Tanganika somewhere, from the fact
that all fresh-water lakes have outlets, The Doctor is able to state
his opinions and reasons far better than I can find for him; and,
lest I misconstrue the subject, I shall leave it until he has an
opportunity to explain them himself; which his great knowledge of
Africa will enable him to do with advantage.
One thing is evident to me, and I believe to the Doctor, that Sir
Samuel Baker will have to curtail the Albert N’Yanza by one, if
not two degrees of latitude. That well-known traveller has drawn
his lake far into the territory of the Warundi, while Ruanda has
been placed on the eastern side; whereas a large portion of it,
if not all, should be placed north of what he has designated on
his map as Usige. The information of such an intelligent man as
Ruhinga is not to be despised; for, if Lake Albert came within a
hundred miles of the Tanganika, he would surely have heard of its
existence, even if he had not seen it himself. Originally he came
from Mutumbi, and he has travelled from that country into Mugihewa,
the district he now governs. He has seen Mwezi, the great King of
Urundi, and describes him as a man about forty years old, and as a
very good man.
Our work was now done; there was nothing more to detain us at
Mugihewa. Ruhinga had been exceedingly kind, and given us one
ox after another to butcher and eat. Mukamba had done the same.
Their women had supplied us with an abundance of milk and butter,
and we had now bounteous supplies of both.
The Doctor had taken a series of observations for latitude and
longitude; and Mugihewa was made out to be in 3 degrees 19 minutes
S. latitude.
On the 7th December, early in the morning, we left Mugihewa, and
rowing past the southern extremity of the Katangara Islands, we
approached the highlands of Uashi near the boundary line between
Mukamba’s country and Uvira. The boundary line is supposed to be
a wide ravine, in the depths of which is a grove of tall, beautiful,
and straight-stemmed trees, out of which the natives make their canoes.
Passing Kanyamabengu River, which issues into the lake close to the
market-ground of Kirabula, the extreme point of Burton and Speke’s
explorations of the Tanganika, we steered south along the western
shore of the lake for half an hour longer to Kavimba, where we
halted to cook breakfast.
The village where lived Mruta, the King of Uvira, was in sight of
our encampment, and as we observed parties of men ascending and
descending the mountains much more often than we thought augured
good to ourselves, we determined to continue on our course south.
Besides, there was a party of disconsolate-looking Wajiji here,
who had been plundered only a few days before our arrival, for
attempting, as the Wavira believed, to evade the honga payment.
Such facts as these, and our knowledge of the general state of
insecurity in the country, resulting from the many wars in which
the districts of the Tanganika were engaged, determined us not to
halt at Kavimba.
We embarked quickly in our boat before the Wavira had collected
themselves, and headed south against a strong gale, which came
driving down on us from the southwest. After a hard pull of about
two hours in the teeth of the storm, which was rapidly rising, we
pointed the head of the boat into a little quiet cove, almost
hidden in tall reeds, and disembarked for the night.
Cognizant of the dangers which surrounded us, knowing, that savage
and implacable man was the worst enemy we had to fear, we employed
our utmost energies in the construction of a stout fence of thorn
bushes, and then sat down to supper after our work was done, and
turned in to sleep; but not before we had posted watchmen to guard
our canoe, lest the daring thieves of Uvira might abstract it, in
which case we should have been in a pretty plight, and in most
unenviable distress.
At daybreak, leaving Kukumba Point after our humble breakfast of
coffee, cheese, and dourra cakes was despatched, we steered south
once more. Our fires had attracted the notice of the sharp-eyed
and suspicious fishermen of Kukumba; but our precautions and the
vigilant watch we had set before retiring, had proved an effectual
safeguard against the Kivira thieves.
The western shores of the lake as we proceeded were loftier, and
more bold than the wooded heights of Urundi and bearded knolls of
Ujiji. A back ridge—the vanguard of the mountains which rise
beyond—disclosed itself between the serrated tops of the front
line of mountains, which rose to a height of from 2,500 to 3,000
feet above the lake. Within the folds of the front line of
mountains rise isolated hills of considerable magnitude, precipitous
and abrupt, but scenically very picturesque. The greater part of
these hills have the rounded and smooth top, or are tabularly
summited. The ridge enfolding these hills shoots out, at intervals,
promontorial projections of gradual sloping outlines, which on the
map I have designated capes, or points. When rounding these points,
up went our compasses for the taking of bearings, and observing
the directions of all prominent objects of interest. Often these
capes are formed by the alluvial plains, through which we may be
sure a river will be found flowing. These pretty alluvial plains,
enfolded on the south, the west, and the north by a grand mountain
arc, present most luxurious and enchanting scenery. The vegetation
seems to be of spontaneous growth. Groups of the Elaeis Guineansis
palm embowering some dun-brown village; an array of majestic,
superb growth of mvule trees; a broad extent covered with vivid
green sorghum stalks; parachute-like tops of mimosa; a line of white
sand, on which native canoes are drawn far above the reach of the
plangent, uneasy surf; fishermen idly reclining in the shade of a
tree;—these are the scenes which reveal themselves to us as we
voyage in our canoe on the Tanganika. When wearied with the romance
of wild tropic scenes such as these, we have but to lift our eyes
to the great mountain tops looming darkly and grandly on our right;
to watch the light pencilling of the cirrus, brushing their summits,
as it is drifted toward the north by the rising wind: to watch the
changing forms which the clouds assume, from the fleecy horizontal
bars of the cirrus, to the denser, gloomier cumulus, prognosticator
of storm and rain, which soon settles into a portentous group—Alps
above Alps, one above another—and we know the storm which was
brewing is at hand, and that it is time to seek shelter.
Passing Muikamba, we saw several groves of the tall mvule tree.
As far as Bemba the Wabembe occupy the mountain summits, while
the Wavira cultivate the alluvial plains along the base and lower
slopes of the mountain. At Bemba we halted to take in pieces of
pipe-clay, in accordance with the superstition of the Wajiji, who
thought us certain of safe passage and good fortune if we complied
with the ancient custom.
Passing Ngovi, we came to a deep bend, which curved off to Cape
Kabogi at the distance of ten miles. About two-thirds of the way
we arrived at a group of islets, three in number, all very steep
and rocky; the largest about 300 feet in length at the base, and
about 200 feet in breadth. Here we made preparations to halt for
the night. The inhabitants of the island were a gorgeously-feathered
old cock, which was kept as a propitiatory offering to the spirit
of the island, a sickly yellow-looking thrush, a hammer-headed
stork, and two fish-hawks, who, finding we had taken possession of
what had been religiously reserved for them, took flight to the
most western island, where from their perches they continued
to eye us most solemnly. As these islands were with difficulty
pronounced by us as Kavunvweh, the Doctor, seeing that they were
the only objects we were likely to discover, named them the
“‘New York Herald’ Islets;” and, in confirmation of the new
designation given them, shook hands with me upon it. Careful
dead-reckoning settled them to be in lat. 3 degrees 41 minutes S.
The summit of the largest island was well adapted to take bearings,
and we improved the opportunity, as most extensive views of the
broad and lengthy lake and surrounding lines of imposing mountains
were attainable. The Ramata Hills were clearly visible, and bore
N.N.E. from it; Katanga Cape, S.E. by S.; Sentakeyi, E.S.E.;
Magala, E. by N.; south-western point of Muzimu bore S., northern
point of Muzimu island, S.S.E.
At dawn on the 9th December we prepared to resume our voyage.
Once or twice in the night we had been visited by fishermen, but
our anxious watchfulness prevented any marauding. It seemed to me,
however, that the people of the opposite shore, who were our
visitors, were eagerly watching an opportunity to pounce upon
our canoe, or take us bodily for a
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