In Door Garedning - William Keane (best new books to read txt) 📗
- Author: William Keane
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they have made no winter growth they will now be the
better prepared to progress in a robust, healthy state.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
AMARYLLIS.—Attend to the shifting of them as soon as they show signs of growth. Let them be
placed in the stove, and give a little water, increasing it gradually as the leaves unfold.
ORCHIDS.—If other departments of gardening are likely to occupy more time than can be very
well spared as spring operations accumulate very fast, it is advisable to proceed with the potting
of Orchids from this time forward, beginning with those that are showing signs of growth. Peat
cut into from one to two-inch cubes, fresh sphagnum to be soaked in boiling water, to destroy
insects, and charcoal lumps, with an abundance of crocks, are the materials to be used. Any
plants that had become very dry should be immersed in tepid water for an hour the day previous
to shifting. The climate of the countries and the localities from whence the species come are the
best guides to their successful cultivation; as the treatment required for Oncidium Carthaginense
would kill O. bifolium, and Cattleya Forbesii will thrive where C. Skinneri will die, and in like
manner with many others.
FORCING-HOUSES.
CAPSICUM.—Sow seeds of the large sort in pans or pots, to be placed in heat. When the seedlings
are an inch or two high pot them singly into small pots, and replace them in heat; to be
afterwards shifted when necessary until the end of May, when they may be planted out on a
south border.
CHERRIES.—Plenty of air, atmospheric moisture, and a very moderate temperature, are the
requisites for them. If the buds are beginning to swell, 45° will be enough to maintain by fire
heat, lowering the temperature down to 40° at night, with a moist atmosphere.
CUCUMBERS.—The plants in bearing to get a top dressing of fresh, rich soil. Keep a sharp look
out for the destruction of insects. When the plants in the seed-bed have made one rough leaf
pinch off the leading shoot above it, so as to cause the plants to throw out two shoots from the
axil of the leaves. Cuttings put in and struck in the seed-bed will come into bearing quicker than
seedling plants.
PEACHES.—If the weather is very dull and unfavourable for giving air where the trees are in
bloom, it is advisable to shake the trellis towards noon for dispersing the pollen.
PINES.—Proceed with the routine as advised in last Calendar.
STRAWBERRIES.—Keep them close to the glass, and remember that they are impatient of heat: let
45° be about the maximum, with a very free circulation of air. If they are plunged in a pit or
dung-bed, let the bottom heat be about 70° maximum, with an atmospheric warmth of 55° to 60°.
In such a situation they will want scarcely any water until they begin to throw up their blossom-
spikes.
TOMATOES.—Sow seed of the large. To be treated as advised for Capsicums.
VINES.—To be looked over carefully, and as soon as they are sufficiently forward to distinguish
the embryo fruit all useless shoots to be removed—that is, all that do not show fruit, and are not
required for wood next season. It may also be necessary to take off some of the shoots that show
fruit where they are very thick. If two shoots grow from one joint one of them should be
removed.
FOURTH WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
The compost intended for the plants in these houses should be prepared and sweetened by
several turnings; and a sufficient supply for immediate use should be stored in an open shed.
CALCEOLARIAS (Herbaceous).—To be potted into larger pots as they require them; compost
equal parts of turfy loam, peat, and leaf mould, with a sprinkling of silver sand. To be kept in a
moderately-moist atmospheric temperature of from 45° at night to 55° in the day. To be slightly
syringed with tepid water on sunny days, and to be kept free from insects.
FUCHSIAS.—After the old plants are shaken out of their pots, and their roots reduced and fresh
potted in a compost of turfy loam and peat, with a little leaf mould and some sand added, to be
introduced to a temperature of 60°. When some of the young shoots are an inch long they may be
taken off, and inserted in pans of sand kept damp, where they will soon take root, and will
require to be pushed on in heat to make fine large specimens for the conservatory or flower
garden.
NEW HOLLAND PLANTS.—Water them with care and moderation. Air to be given freely night and
day in mild weather. Fire heat to be applied only, and then merely sufficiently, to exclude frost.
The strong shoots of the vigorous young stock to be stopped in due time as the best foundation
for future good specimens.
Sow seeds of Thunbergias, Phlox Drummondi, Mignonette, Ten-week and other Stocks, in pots,
to be placed upon a slight hotbed.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
ACHIMENES.—Place the tubers thickly in pans, to be potted singly as they appear, in equal
portions of leaf mould and sandy loam; to be started into growth in a moderate bottom heat.
GLOXINIAS.—Select a few varieties. To be shaken out, and fresh potted in equal parts of turfy
loam and heath soil and a little sand. To be excited in bottom heat.
GESNERA ZEBRINA.—Those which were first in flower should be dried off for early work next
season. This is to be done by withholding water gradually, and by keeping their foliage still
exposed to the light.
Sow seeds of Egg Plants, Cockscombs, Amaranths, and other such tender annuals in heat, to
grow them in good time into fine specimens for the adornment of the conservatory in summer.
FORCING-HOUSES.
CUCUMBERS.—The plants preparing for ridging out early in February will require attention in
airing, and watering with tepid water occasionally when dry, and to be kept close to the glass to
produce sturdy growth. The plants on dung-beds require great attention at this season. To be kept
within eight or nine inches of the glass; to be stopped regularly; and to maintain a heat of not less
than 70° by day; to be able to give air to dry the plants. The fermenting materials to be always
prepared ready to receive the linings when the heat declines. For those who are fortunate enough
to be provided with pits heated by hot-water pipes, such constant labour and attention will not be
necessary.
MELONS.—To be treated as advised for Cucumbers.
PEACHES.—When the blossoms are beginning to expand, discontinue syringing, but sprinkle the
pathways, to produce a moist, but not too damp, and consequently a healthy, state of the
atmosphere. Fresh air is indispensable and should be admitted at every favourable opportunity;
and if the cold external air could be made to pass over the flues, or hot-water pipes, so as to get
warmed before coming in contact with the blossoms, a gentle circulation would be constantly
kept up until the fruit is fairly set.
PINES.—Great care is necessary when syringing, more especially those that are about throwing
up their flower-stems, that no more water may lodge in the hearts of the plants than will
evaporate during the day. But if, from any cause, a portion remain until evening, it should be
drawn away by means of a syringe having a long and narrow tube at the end of it, or by a piece
of sponge tied to the point of a small stick.
STRAWBERRIES.—When these are throwing up their blossom-spikes a little liquid manure may be
given, but it should be very weak, and perfectly clear. A succession of plants to be introduced
where there is a gentle heat. The decayed leaves to be trimmed off, the surface of the soil to be
stirred, and the pots to be placed on shelves near the glass.
VINES.—Continue the treatment as advised last week.
Keep up a succession of Kidney Beans, Asparagus, Sea-kale, and Rhubarb.
PITS AND FRAMES.
Cuttings of Anagallis, Heliotropes, Geraniums, Lobelias, Salvias, and Verbenas may now be
struck in a gentle bottom heat, and pushed forward to make good sized plants for bedding out
when all danger from frost is over.
FEBRUARY.
FIRST WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
Proceed with the potting of the young plants in the greenhouse, and the small specimens of all
kinds, using the soil tolerably rough, with a liberal sprinkling of sand, and good drainage. To be
kept rather close until they make fresh roots.
AZALEAS (Indian).—Introduce a few into heat; to be fresh potted before starting them, giving a
rather liberal shift into good peat and sand, with thorough drainage. A moist-growing
temperature between 60° and 70° to be maintained, with plenty of air in favourable weather. Sow
seed, as likewise Rhododendron, in a gentle bottom heat.
KALOSANTHES.—To be started into growth, potting them in a compost of half turfy loam, one-
fourth turfy peat, and one-fourth decomposed leaf mould, with plenty of coarse gritty sand, and
an admixture of charcoal and pebbles or potsherds broken small. A liberal shift to be given, and
to be kept in a temperature of from 45° to 50°.
NEW HOLLAND PLANTS.—Select young plants of the Boronias and other such families, and give
them a liberal shift; they delight in good fibrous heath soil, with a good portion of sharp sand,
and plenty of drainage. It is advisable to pick off the flowers, and to pinch off the tops of the
young shoots during their growth, to form handsome specimens.
ORANGE TREES.—Be vigilant that scale and all insects are removed from them and from
Neriums, and other such plants before they begin to grow, as young wood and foliage are more
difficult to clean without injury.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Stove plants in general will now require an increase in the amount of atmospheric moisture, and
a slight advance in heat; such an advance to be made, more especially on bright afternoons, when
solar heat can be enclosed in good time, and with it a moist and congenial atmosphere.
CRINUMS.—Pot them if they require it, but without disturbing the ball of earth about their roots;
to be favoured with an increase of heat to start them afresh, and during their active growth to be
liberally supplied with water.
GLORIOSA SUPERBA.—Shake out the roots, and repot in good fibrous loam, with a sprinkling of
sand, and place them in bottom heat. No water to be applied to the tubers until they have
commenced their growth.
FORCING-PIT.
Continue to introduce for succession bulbs, Lilacs, Roses, Sweet Brier, and the many other plants
previously recommended as suitable and useful for that purpose. A temperature of from 65° to
70° to be maintained, with plenty of moisture in clear weather.
FORCING-HOUSES.
FIGS.—Trees in pots to
better prepared to progress in a robust, healthy state.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
AMARYLLIS.—Attend to the shifting of them as soon as they show signs of growth. Let them be
placed in the stove, and give a little water, increasing it gradually as the leaves unfold.
ORCHIDS.—If other departments of gardening are likely to occupy more time than can be very
well spared as spring operations accumulate very fast, it is advisable to proceed with the potting
of Orchids from this time forward, beginning with those that are showing signs of growth. Peat
cut into from one to two-inch cubes, fresh sphagnum to be soaked in boiling water, to destroy
insects, and charcoal lumps, with an abundance of crocks, are the materials to be used. Any
plants that had become very dry should be immersed in tepid water for an hour the day previous
to shifting. The climate of the countries and the localities from whence the species come are the
best guides to their successful cultivation; as the treatment required for Oncidium Carthaginense
would kill O. bifolium, and Cattleya Forbesii will thrive where C. Skinneri will die, and in like
manner with many others.
FORCING-HOUSES.
CAPSICUM.—Sow seeds of the large sort in pans or pots, to be placed in heat. When the seedlings
are an inch or two high pot them singly into small pots, and replace them in heat; to be
afterwards shifted when necessary until the end of May, when they may be planted out on a
south border.
CHERRIES.—Plenty of air, atmospheric moisture, and a very moderate temperature, are the
requisites for them. If the buds are beginning to swell, 45° will be enough to maintain by fire
heat, lowering the temperature down to 40° at night, with a moist atmosphere.
CUCUMBERS.—The plants in bearing to get a top dressing of fresh, rich soil. Keep a sharp look
out for the destruction of insects. When the plants in the seed-bed have made one rough leaf
pinch off the leading shoot above it, so as to cause the plants to throw out two shoots from the
axil of the leaves. Cuttings put in and struck in the seed-bed will come into bearing quicker than
seedling plants.
PEACHES.—If the weather is very dull and unfavourable for giving air where the trees are in
bloom, it is advisable to shake the trellis towards noon for dispersing the pollen.
PINES.—Proceed with the routine as advised in last Calendar.
STRAWBERRIES.—Keep them close to the glass, and remember that they are impatient of heat: let
45° be about the maximum, with a very free circulation of air. If they are plunged in a pit or
dung-bed, let the bottom heat be about 70° maximum, with an atmospheric warmth of 55° to 60°.
In such a situation they will want scarcely any water until they begin to throw up their blossom-
spikes.
TOMATOES.—Sow seed of the large. To be treated as advised for Capsicums.
VINES.—To be looked over carefully, and as soon as they are sufficiently forward to distinguish
the embryo fruit all useless shoots to be removed—that is, all that do not show fruit, and are not
required for wood next season. It may also be necessary to take off some of the shoots that show
fruit where they are very thick. If two shoots grow from one joint one of them should be
removed.
FOURTH WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
The compost intended for the plants in these houses should be prepared and sweetened by
several turnings; and a sufficient supply for immediate use should be stored in an open shed.
CALCEOLARIAS (Herbaceous).—To be potted into larger pots as they require them; compost
equal parts of turfy loam, peat, and leaf mould, with a sprinkling of silver sand. To be kept in a
moderately-moist atmospheric temperature of from 45° at night to 55° in the day. To be slightly
syringed with tepid water on sunny days, and to be kept free from insects.
FUCHSIAS.—After the old plants are shaken out of their pots, and their roots reduced and fresh
potted in a compost of turfy loam and peat, with a little leaf mould and some sand added, to be
introduced to a temperature of 60°. When some of the young shoots are an inch long they may be
taken off, and inserted in pans of sand kept damp, where they will soon take root, and will
require to be pushed on in heat to make fine large specimens for the conservatory or flower
garden.
NEW HOLLAND PLANTS.—Water them with care and moderation. Air to be given freely night and
day in mild weather. Fire heat to be applied only, and then merely sufficiently, to exclude frost.
The strong shoots of the vigorous young stock to be stopped in due time as the best foundation
for future good specimens.
Sow seeds of Thunbergias, Phlox Drummondi, Mignonette, Ten-week and other Stocks, in pots,
to be placed upon a slight hotbed.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
ACHIMENES.—Place the tubers thickly in pans, to be potted singly as they appear, in equal
portions of leaf mould and sandy loam; to be started into growth in a moderate bottom heat.
GLOXINIAS.—Select a few varieties. To be shaken out, and fresh potted in equal parts of turfy
loam and heath soil and a little sand. To be excited in bottom heat.
GESNERA ZEBRINA.—Those which were first in flower should be dried off for early work next
season. This is to be done by withholding water gradually, and by keeping their foliage still
exposed to the light.
Sow seeds of Egg Plants, Cockscombs, Amaranths, and other such tender annuals in heat, to
grow them in good time into fine specimens for the adornment of the conservatory in summer.
FORCING-HOUSES.
CUCUMBERS.—The plants preparing for ridging out early in February will require attention in
airing, and watering with tepid water occasionally when dry, and to be kept close to the glass to
produce sturdy growth. The plants on dung-beds require great attention at this season. To be kept
within eight or nine inches of the glass; to be stopped regularly; and to maintain a heat of not less
than 70° by day; to be able to give air to dry the plants. The fermenting materials to be always
prepared ready to receive the linings when the heat declines. For those who are fortunate enough
to be provided with pits heated by hot-water pipes, such constant labour and attention will not be
necessary.
MELONS.—To be treated as advised for Cucumbers.
PEACHES.—When the blossoms are beginning to expand, discontinue syringing, but sprinkle the
pathways, to produce a moist, but not too damp, and consequently a healthy, state of the
atmosphere. Fresh air is indispensable and should be admitted at every favourable opportunity;
and if the cold external air could be made to pass over the flues, or hot-water pipes, so as to get
warmed before coming in contact with the blossoms, a gentle circulation would be constantly
kept up until the fruit is fairly set.
PINES.—Great care is necessary when syringing, more especially those that are about throwing
up their flower-stems, that no more water may lodge in the hearts of the plants than will
evaporate during the day. But if, from any cause, a portion remain until evening, it should be
drawn away by means of a syringe having a long and narrow tube at the end of it, or by a piece
of sponge tied to the point of a small stick.
STRAWBERRIES.—When these are throwing up their blossom-spikes a little liquid manure may be
given, but it should be very weak, and perfectly clear. A succession of plants to be introduced
where there is a gentle heat. The decayed leaves to be trimmed off, the surface of the soil to be
stirred, and the pots to be placed on shelves near the glass.
VINES.—Continue the treatment as advised last week.
Keep up a succession of Kidney Beans, Asparagus, Sea-kale, and Rhubarb.
PITS AND FRAMES.
Cuttings of Anagallis, Heliotropes, Geraniums, Lobelias, Salvias, and Verbenas may now be
struck in a gentle bottom heat, and pushed forward to make good sized plants for bedding out
when all danger from frost is over.
FEBRUARY.
FIRST WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
Proceed with the potting of the young plants in the greenhouse, and the small specimens of all
kinds, using the soil tolerably rough, with a liberal sprinkling of sand, and good drainage. To be
kept rather close until they make fresh roots.
AZALEAS (Indian).—Introduce a few into heat; to be fresh potted before starting them, giving a
rather liberal shift into good peat and sand, with thorough drainage. A moist-growing
temperature between 60° and 70° to be maintained, with plenty of air in favourable weather. Sow
seed, as likewise Rhododendron, in a gentle bottom heat.
KALOSANTHES.—To be started into growth, potting them in a compost of half turfy loam, one-
fourth turfy peat, and one-fourth decomposed leaf mould, with plenty of coarse gritty sand, and
an admixture of charcoal and pebbles or potsherds broken small. A liberal shift to be given, and
to be kept in a temperature of from 45° to 50°.
NEW HOLLAND PLANTS.—Select young plants of the Boronias and other such families, and give
them a liberal shift; they delight in good fibrous heath soil, with a good portion of sharp sand,
and plenty of drainage. It is advisable to pick off the flowers, and to pinch off the tops of the
young shoots during their growth, to form handsome specimens.
ORANGE TREES.—Be vigilant that scale and all insects are removed from them and from
Neriums, and other such plants before they begin to grow, as young wood and foliage are more
difficult to clean without injury.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Stove plants in general will now require an increase in the amount of atmospheric moisture, and
a slight advance in heat; such an advance to be made, more especially on bright afternoons, when
solar heat can be enclosed in good time, and with it a moist and congenial atmosphere.
CRINUMS.—Pot them if they require it, but without disturbing the ball of earth about their roots;
to be favoured with an increase of heat to start them afresh, and during their active growth to be
liberally supplied with water.
GLORIOSA SUPERBA.—Shake out the roots, and repot in good fibrous loam, with a sprinkling of
sand, and place them in bottom heat. No water to be applied to the tubers until they have
commenced their growth.
FORCING-PIT.
Continue to introduce for succession bulbs, Lilacs, Roses, Sweet Brier, and the many other plants
previously recommended as suitable and useful for that purpose. A temperature of from 65° to
70° to be maintained, with plenty of moisture in clear weather.
FORCING-HOUSES.
FIGS.—Trees in pots to
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