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APART-VEGETABLE PLANT[1] SOW—INs. SEEDS[2] ROWS

 

I. CROPS REMAINING ENTIRE SEASON

 

Asparagus, seed April-May 1 2-4 in. 15 in.

Asparagus, plants April 4 1 ft. 3 ft.

Bean, pole May 15-June 10 2 3 ft. 3 ft.

Bean, lima May 20-June 10 2 3 ft. 3 ft.

Beet, late April-August 2 3-4 in. 15 in.

Carrot, late May-July 1/2-1 2-3 in. 15 in.

Corn, late May 20-July 10 2 3 ft. 4 ft.

Cucumber May 10-July 15 1 4 ft. 4 ft.

Eggplant, plants June 1-20 .. 2 ft. 30 in.

Leek April .. 2-4 in. 15 in.

Melon, musk May 15-June 15 1 4 ft. 4 ft.

Melon, water May 15-June 15 1 6-8 ft. 6-8 ft.

Onion April 1/2-1 2-4 in. 15 in.

Okra May 15-June 15 1/2-1 2 ft. 3 ft.

Parsley[4] April-May 1/2 4-6 in. 1 ft.

Parsnip April 1/2-1 3-5 in. 18 in.

Pepper, seed June 1st 1/2 3-6 in. 15 in.

Pepper, plants June 1-20 .. 2 ft. 30 in.

Potatoes, main April 15-June 20 4-6 13 in. 30 in.

Pumpkins May 1-June 20 1-2 6-8 ft. 6-8 ft.

Rhubarb, plants April .. 2-3 ft. 3 ft.

Salsify April-May 1 3-6 in. 18 in.

Squash, summer May 15-July 1 1-2 4 ft. 4 ft.

Squash, winter May 15-June 20 1-2 6-8 ft. 6-8 ft.

Tomato, seed June 1/2 3-4 in. 15 in.

Tomato, plants May 15-July 20 .. 3 ft. 3 ft.

 

NOTE.—The index reference numbers refer to notes at end of chapter.

––––––+–––+––––––––––––––

|SEED FOR |

| 50 FT. |

VEGETABLE | ROW | VARIETIES

––––––+–––+––––––––––––––

Asparagus, seed | 1 oz. | Palmetto, Giant Argenteuil, Barr’s

| | Mammoth

Asparagus, plants | 50 | Palmetto, Giant Argenteuil, Barr’s

| | Mammoth

Bean, pole | 1/2 pt. | Kentucky Wonder, Golden, Cluster,

| | Burger’s Stringless

Bean, lima | 1/2 pt. | Early Leviathan, Giant Podded, Burpee

| | Improved

Beet, late | 1 oz. | Crimson Globe

Carrot, late | 1/2 oz. | Danver’s Half-long, Ox-heart, Chantenay

Corn, late | 1/2 pt. | Seymour’s Sweet Orange, White Evergreen,

| | Country Gentleman

Cucumber | 1/2 oz. | Early White Spine, Fordhook Famous, Davis

| | Perfect

Eggplant, plants | 25 | Black Beauty, N.Y. Purple

Leek | 1/2 oz. | American Flag

Melon, musk | 1/2 oz. | Netted Gem, Emerald Gem, Hoodoo

Melon, water | 1/4 oz. | Cole’s Early Sweetheart, Halbert Honey

Onion | 1/2 oz. | Prizetaker, Danver’s Globe, Ailsa Craig,

| | Southport Red Globe, Mammoth

| | Silverskin (white)

Okra | 1/2 oz. | Perfected Perkins, White Velvet

Parsley | 1/2 oz. | Emerald

Parsnip | 1/4 oz. | Hollow Crowned (Improved)

Pepper, seed | 1/2 oz. | Ruby King, Chinese Giant

Pepper, plants | 25 | Ruby King, Chinese Giant

Potatoes, main | 1/2 pk. | Irish Cobbler, Green Mountain, Uncle Sam

| | (Norton Beauty, Norwood, early)

Pumpkins | 1/4 oz. | Large Cheese, Quaker Pie

Rhubarb, plants | 25 | Myatt’s Victoria

Salsify | 3/4 oz. | Mammoth Sandwich

Squash, summer | 1/4 oz. | White Bush, Delicata, Fordhook, Vegetable

| | Marrow

Squash, winter | 1/4 oz. | Hubbard, Delicious

Tomato, seed | 1/2 oz. | Earliana, Chalk’s Jewel, Matchless, Dwarf

| | Giant

Tomato, plants | 20 | Earliana, Chalk’s Jewel, Matchless, Dwarf

| | Giant

––––––+–––+––––––––––––––

PLANTING TABLE

 

DEPTH TO -DISTANCE APART-VEGETABLE PLANT[1] SOW—INs. SEEDS[3] ROWS

 

II. CROPS FOR SUCCESSION PLANTINGS

 

Bean, dwarf May 5-Aug 15 2 2-4 in. 1-1/2-2 ft.

Kohlrabi[4] April-July 1/2 - 1 6-12 in. 1-1/2-2 ft.

Lettuce[4] April-August 1/2 1 ft. 1-1-1/2 ft.

Peas, smooth April 1-Aug 1 2-3 2-4 in. 3 ft.

Peas, wrinkled April 10-July 15 2-3 2-4 in. 3-4 ft.

Radish April 1-Sept 1 1/2 2-3 in. 1 ft.

Spinach April-Sept 15 1 3-5 in. 18 in.

Turnip April-Sept 1/2-1 4-6 in. 15 in.

 

III. CROPS TO BE FOLLOWED BY OTHERS

 

Beet, early April-June 2 3-4 in. 15 in.

Broccoli, early[4] April 1/2-1 1-1/2 ft. 2 ft.

Borecole[4] April 1/2-1 2 ft. 2-1/2 ft.

Brussels sprouts[4] April 1/2-1 1-1/2 ft. 2 ft.

Cabbage, early[4] April 1/2-1 1-1/2 ft. 2 ft.

Carrot April 1/2-1 2-3 in. 15 in.

Cauliflower[4] April 1/2-1 1-1/2 ft. 2 ft.

Com, early May 10-20 2 3 ft. 3-4 ft.

Onion sets April-May 15 1-2 2-4 in. 15 in.

Peas April 1-May 1 2 2-4 in. 3 ft.

Crops in Sec. II.

 

IV. CROPS THAT MAY FOLLOW OTHERS

 

Beet, late July-August 2 3-4 in. 15 in.

Borecole May-June[2] 1/2-1 2 ft. 2-1/2 ft.

Broccoli May-June[2] 1/2-1 2 ft. 2-1/2 ft.

Brussels sprouts May-June[2] 1/2-1 1-1/2 ft. 2-1/2 ft.

Cabbage late May-June[2] 1/2-1 2-1/2 ft. 2-1/2 ft.

Cauliflower May-June[2] 1/2-1 2 ft. 2-1/2 ft.

Celery, seed April 1/2 1-2 in. 1 ft.

Celery, plant July 1-Aug 1 .. 6 in. 3-4 ft.

Endive[4] April-August 1/2 1 ft. 1 ft.

Peas, late May 15-Aug 1 2-3 2-4 in. 4 ft.

Crops in Sec. II.

 

II. CROPS FOR SUCCESSION PLANTINGS

––––––+–––+––––––––––––––

|SEED FOR |

| 50 FT. |

VEGETABLE | ROW | VARIETIES

––––––+–––+––––––––––––––

Bean, dwarf | 1 pt. | Red Valentine Burpee’s Greenpod,

| | Improved Refugee, Brittle Wax,

| | Rust-proof Golden Wax, Burpee’s

| | White Wax

Kohlrabi | 1/4 oz | White Vienna

Lettuce | 50 | Mignonette, Grand Rapids, May King,

| | Big Boston, New York, Deacon, Cos,

| | Paris White

Peas, smooth | 1 pt | American Wonder

Peas, wrinkled | 1 pt | Gradus, Boston Unrivaled, Quite Content

Radish | 1/2 oz. | Rapid Red, Crimson Globe, Chinese

Spinach | 1/2 oz. | Swiss Chard Beet, Long Season, Victoria

Turnip | 1/3 oz. | White Milan, Petrowski, Golden Ball

 

III. CROPS TO BE FOLLOWED BY OTHERS

 

Beet, early | 1 oz. | Edmund’s Early, Early Model

Broccoli, early | 35 | Early White French

Borecole | 25 | Dwarf Scotch Curled

Brussels sprouts | 35 | Dalkeith, Danish Prize

Cabbage, early | 35 | Wakefield, Glory of Enkhuisen,

| | Early Summer, Succession, Savoy

Carrot | 1/2 oz. | Golden Ball, Early Scarlet Horn

Cauliflower | 35 | Burpee’s Best Early, Snowball, Sea-foam

| | Dry Weather

Corn, early | 1/3 pt. | Golden Bantam, Peep o’ Day, Cory

Onion sets | 2 pt. |

Peas | 1 pt. |

 

Crops in Sec. II.

 

IV. CROPS THAT MAY FOLLOW OTHERS

 

Beet, late | 1 oz. | Crimson Globe

Borecole | 25 | Dwarf Scotch Curled

Broccoli | 25 | Early White French

Brussels sprouts | 35 | Dalkeith, Danish Prize

Cabbage, late | 25 | Succession, Danish Ballhead Drumhead

Cauliflower | 25 | As above [Savoy, Mammoth Rock (red)]

Celery, seed | 1 oz. | White Plume, Golden Self-blanching,

| | Winter Queen

Celery, plant | 100 | White Plume, Golden Self-blanching,

| | Winter Queen

Endive | 1/2 oz. | Broad-Leaved Batavian, Giant Fringed

Peas, late | 1 pt. | Gradus

 

Crops in Sec. II.

 

REFERENCE NOTES FROM THE TABLES

 

1 In the vicinity of New York City. Each 100 miles north or south will

make a difference of 5 to 7 days later or earlier.

 

2 This is for sowing the seed. It will take three to six weeks before

plants are ready. Hence the advantage of using the seed-bed. For

instance, you can start your late cabbage about June 15th, to follow

the first crop of peas, which should be cleared off by the 10th of

July.

 

3 Distances given are those at which the growing plants should

stand, after thinning. Seed in drills should be sown several times as

thick.

 

4 Best started in seed-bed, and afterward transplanted; but may be sown

when wanted and afterward thinned to the best plants.

CHAPTER V

IMPLEMENTS AND THEIR USES

 

It may seem to the reader that it is all very well to make a garden

with a pencil, but that the work of transferring it to the soil must be

quite another problem and one entailing so much work that he will leave

it to the professional market gardener. He possibly pictures to himself

some bent-kneed and stoop-shouldered man with the hoe, and decides that

after all there is too much work in the garden game. What a revelation

would be in store for him if he could witness one day’s operations in a

modern market garden! Very likely indeed not a hoe would be seen during

the entire visit. Modern implements, within less than a generation,

have revolutionized gardening.

 

This is true of the small garden as certainly as of the large one: in

fact, in proportion I am not sure but that it is more so—because of

the second wonderful thing about modern garden tools, that is, the low

prices at which they can be bought, considering the enormous percentage

of labor saved in accomplishing results. There is nothing in the way of

expense to prevent even the most modest gardener acquiring, during a

few years, by the judicious expenditure of but a few dollars annually,

a very complete outfit of tools that will handsomely repay their cost.

 

While some garden tools have been improved and developed out of all

resemblance to their original forms, others have changed little in

generations, and in probability will remain ever with us. There is a

thing or two to say about even the simplest of them, however,—

especially to anyone not familiar with their uses.

 

There are tools for use in every phase of horticultural operations; for

preparing the ground, for planting the seed, for cultivation, for

protecting crops from insects and disease, and for harvesting.

 

First of all comes the ancient and honorable spade, which, for small

garden plots, borders, beds, etc., must still be relied upon for the

initial operation in gardening—breaking up the soil. There are several

types, but any will answer the purpose. In buying a spade look out for

two things: see that it is well strapped up the handle in front and

back, and that it hangs well. In spading up ground, especially soil

that is turfy or hard, the work may be made easier by taking a strip

not quite twice as wide as the spade, and making diagonal cuts so that

one vertical edge of the spade at each thrust cuts clean out to where

the soil has already been dug. The wide-tined spading-fork is

frequently used instead of the spade, as it is lighter and can be more

advantageously used to break up lumps and level off surfaces. In most

soils it will do this work as well, if not better, than the spade and

has the further good quality of being serviceable as a fork too, thus

combining two tools in one. It should be more generally known and used.

With the ordinary fork, used for handling manure and gathering up

trash, weeds, etc., every gardener is familiar. The type with oval,

slightly up-curved tines, five or six in number, and a D handle, is the

most convenient and comfortable for garden use.

 

For areas large enough for a horse to turn around in, use a plow. There

are many good makes. The swivel type has the advantage of turning all

the furrows one way, and is the best for small plots and sloping

ground. It should turn a clean, deep furrow. In deep soil that has long

been cultivated, plowing should, with few exceptions, be down at least

to the subsoil; and if the soil is shallow it will be advisable to turn

up a little of the subsoil, at each plowing—not more than an inch—in

order that the soil may gradually be deepened. In plowing sod it will

be well to have the plow fitted with a coulter, which turns a miniature

furrow ahead of the plowshare, thus covering under all sods and grass

and getting them out of the way of

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