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its Victims -- An unreasonable Man -- "Woman's Rights" --

Presents -- Temperance -- A winding Course to shun Villages --

Banyai Complexion and Hair -- Mushrooms -- The Tubers, Mokuri --

The Tree Shekabakadzi -- Face of the Country -- Pot-holes --

Pursued by a Party of Natives -- Unpleasant Threat --

Aroused by a Company of Soldiers -- A civilized Breakfast --

Arrival at Tete.

Chapter 31.

Kind Reception from the Commandant -- His Generosity to my Men --

The Village of Tete -- The Population -- Distilled Spirits --

The Fort -- Cause of the Decadence of Portuguese Power --

Former Trade -- Slaves employed in Gold-washing -- Slave-trade drained the Country of Laborers -- The Rebel Nyaude's Stockade -- He burns Tete --

Kisaka's Revolt and Ravages -- Extensive Field of Sugar-cane --

The Commandant's good Reputation among the Natives --

Providential Guidance -- Seams of Coal -- A hot Spring --

Picturesque Country -- Water-carriage to the Coal-fields --

Workmen's Wages -- Exports -- Price of Provisions -- Visit Gold-washings --

The Process of obtaining the precious Metal -- Coal within a Gold-field --

Present from Major Sicard -- Natives raise Wheat, etc. --

Liberality of the Commandant -- Geographical Information from Senhor Candido -- Earthquakes -- Native Ideas of a Supreme Being --

Also of the Immortality and Transmigration of Souls -- Fondness for Display at Funerals -- Trade Restrictions -- Former Jesuit Establishment --

State of Religion and Education at Tete -- Inundation of the Zambesi --

Cotton cultivated -- The fibrous Plants Conge and Buaze --

Detained by Fever -- The Kumbanzo Bark -- Native Medicines -- Iron, its Quality -- Hear of Famine at Kilimane -- Death of a Portuguese Lady --

The Funeral -- Disinterested Kindness of the Portuguese.

Chapter 32.

Leave Tete and proceed down the River -- Pass the Stockade of Bonga --

Gorge of Lupata -- "Spine of the World" -- Width of River --

Islands -- War Drum at Shiramba -- Canoe Navigation -- Reach Senna --

Its ruinous State -- Landeens levy Fines upon the Inhabitants --

Cowardice of native Militia -- State of the Revenue -- No direct Trade with Portugal -- Attempts to revive the Trade of Eastern Africa --

Country round Senna -- Gorongozo, a Jesuit Station --

Manica, the best Gold Region in Eastern Africa -- Boat-building at Senna --

Our Departure -- Capture of a Rebel Stockade -- Plants Alfacinya and Njefu at the Confluence of the Shire -- Landeen Opinion of the Whites --

Mazaro, the point reached by Captain Parker -- His Opinion respecting the Navigation of the River from this to the Ocean --

Lieutenant Hoskins' Remarks on the same subject -- Fever, its Effects --

Kindly received into the House of Colonel Nunes at Kilimane --

Forethought of Captain Nolloth and Dr. Walsh -- Joy imbittered --

Deep Obligations to the Earl of Clarendon, etc. -- On developing Resources of the Interior -- Desirableness of Missionary Societies selecting healthy Stations -- Arrangements on leaving my Men --

Retrospect -- Probable Influence of the Discoveries on Slavery --

Supply of Cotton, Sugar, etc., by Free Labor -- Commercial Stations --

Development of the Resources of Africa a Work of Time -- Site of Kilimane --

Unhealthiness -- Death of a shipwrecked Crew from Fever --

The Captain saved by Quinine -- Arrival of H. M. Brig "Frolic" --

Anxiety of one of my Men to go to England -- Rough Passage in the Boats to the Ship -- Sekwebu's Alarm -- Sail for Mauritius -- Sekwebu on board; he becomes insane; drowns himself -- Kindness of Major-General C. M. Hay --

Escape Shipwreck -- Reach Home.

Appendix. -- Latitudes and Longitudes of Positions.

Appendix. -- Book Review in Harper's New Monthly Magazine, February, 1858.

Appendix. -- Notes to etext.

Missionary Travels and Researches in South Africa.

Introduction.

Personal Sketch -- Highland Ancestors -- Family Traditions --

Grandfather removes to the Lowlands -- Parents -- Early Labors and Efforts -- Evening School -- Love of Reading -- Religious Impressions --

Medical Education -- Youthful Travels -- Geology -- Mental Discipline --

Study in Glasgow -- London Missionary Society -- Native Village --

Medical Diploma -- Theological Studies -- Departure for Africa --

No Claim to Literary Accomplishments.

My own inclination would lead me to say as little as possible about myself; but several friends, in whose judgment I have confidence, have suggested that, as the reader likes to know something about the author, a short account of his origin and early life would lend additional interest to this book. Such is my excuse for the following egotism; and, if an apology be necessary for giving a genealogy, I find it in the fact that it is not very long, and contains only one incident of which I have reason to be proud.

Our great-grandfather fell at the battle of Culloden, fighting for the old line of kings; and our grandfather was a small farmer in Ulva, where my father was born. It is one of that cluster of the Hebrides thus alluded to by Walter Scott:

"And Ulva dark, and Colonsay, And all the group of islets gay That guard famed Staffa round."*

--

Lord of the Isles, canto 4.

--

Our grandfather was intimately acquainted with all the traditionary legends which that great writer has since made use of in the "Tales of a Grandfather"

and other works. As a boy I remember listening to him with delight, for his memory was stored with a never-ending stock of stories, many of which were wonderfully like those I have since heard while sitting by the African evening fires. Our grandmother, too, used to sing Gaelic songs, some of which, as she believed, had been composed by captive islanders languishing hopelessly among the Turks.

Grandfather could give particulars of the lives of his ancestors for six generations of the family before him; and the only point of the tradition I feel proud of is this: One of these poor hardy islanders was renowned in the district for great wisdom and prudence; and it is related that, when he was on his death-bed, he called all his children around him and said, "Now, in my lifetime, I have searched most carefully through all the traditions I could find of our family, and I never could discover that there was a dishonest man among our forefathers. If, therefore, any of you or any of your children should take to dishonest ways, it will not be because it runs in our blood: it does not belong to you.

I leave this precept with you: Be honest." If, therefore, in the following pages I fall into any errors, I hope they will be dealt with as honest mistakes, and not as indicating that I have forgotten our ancient motto. This event took place at a time when the Highlanders, according to Macaulay, were much like the Cape Caffres, and any one, it was said, could escape punishment for cattle-stealing by presenting a share of the plunder to his chieftain.

Our ancestors were Roman Catholics; they were made Protestants by the laird coming round with a man having a yellow staff, which would seem to have attracted more attention than his teaching, for the new religion went long afterward, perhaps it does so still, by the name of "the religion of the yellow stick".

Finding his farm in Ulva insufficient to support a numerous family, my grandfather removed to Blantyre Works, a large cotton manufactory on the beautiful Clyde, above Glasgow; and his sons, having had the best education the Hebrides afforded, were gladly received as clerks by the proprietors, Monteith and Co.

He himself, highly esteemed for his unflinching honesty, was employed in the conveyance of large sums of money from Glasgow to the works, and in old age was, according to the custom of that company, pensioned off, so as to spend his declining years in ease and comfort.

Our uncles all entered his majesty's service during the last French war, either as soldiers or sailors; but my father remained at home, and, though too conscientious ever to become rich as a small tea-dealer, by his kindliness of manner and winning ways he made the heart-strings of his children twine around him as firmly as if he had possessed, and could have bestowed upon them, every worldly advantage.

He reared his children in connection with the Kirk of Scotland --

a religious establishment which has been an incalculable blessing to that country -- but he afterward left it, and during the last twenty years of his life held the office of deacon of an independent church in Hamilton, and deserved my lasting gratitude and homage for presenting me, from my infancy, with a continuously consistent pious example, such as that ideal of which is so beautifully and truthfully portrayed in Burns's "Cottar's Saturday Night". He died in February, 1856, in peaceful hope of that mercy which we all expect through the death of our Lord and Savior. I was at the time on my way below Zumbo, expecting no greater pleasure in this country than sitting by our cottage fire and telling him my travels. I revere his memory.

The earliest recollection of my mother recalls a picture so often seen among the Scottish poor -- that of the anxious housewife striving to make both ends meet. At the age of ten I was put into the factory as a "piecer", to aid by my earnings in lessening her anxiety. With a part of my first week's wages I purchased Ruddiman's "Rudiments of Latin", and pursued the study of that language for many years afterward, with unabated ardor, at an evening school, which met between the hours of eight and ten. The dictionary part of my labors was followed up till twelve o'clock, or later, if my mother did not interfere by jumping up and snatching the books out of my hands. I had to be back in the factory by six in the morning, and continue my work, with intervals for breakfast and dinner, till eight o'clock at night.

I read in this way many of the classical authors, and knew Virgil and Horace better at sixteen than I do now. Our schoolmaster -- happily still alive --

was supported in part by the company; he was attentive and kind, and so moderate in his charges that all who wished for education might have obtained it. Many availed themselves of the privilege; and some of my schoolfellows now rank in positions far above what they appeared ever likely to come to when in the village school.

If such a system were established in England, it would prove a never-ending blessing to the poor.

In reading, every thing that I could lay my hands on was devoured except novels. Scientific works and books of travels were my especial delight; though my father, believing, with many of his time who ought to have known better, that the former were inimical to religion, would have preferred to have seen me poring over the "Cloud of Witnesses", or Boston's "Fourfold State".

Our difference of opinion reached the point of open rebellion on my part, and his last application of the rod was on my refusal to peruse Wilberforce's "Practical Christianity". This dislike to dry doctrinal reading, and to religious reading of every sort, continued for years afterward; but having lighted on those admirable works of Dr. Thomas Dick, "The Philosophy of Religion" and "The Philosophy of a Future State", it was gratifying to find my own ideas, that

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