Mother of Purl by Eig, Edith (best desktop ebook reader .TXT) 📗

needle; Step 2 knit that stitch and Step 3A/3B immediately knit the following stitch on the needle. I prefer this technique because it creates a smooth and even surface and won’t cause a noticeable disruption in the look of your knitting.

METHOD C: The third way to increase is commonly called a “make one.” The advantage to this method is that it can be made anywhere across the row without distorting the look of your work, whereas the two methods previously discussed should only be used at the beginning or end of a row. To create a make one, knit across the row to the point where you want to increase. Look at the knitting between the stitch on your left–hand needle and the stitch on your right–hand needle; you’ll clearly see a “bar.” Step 1, with your right–hand needle, pick the bar from behind and Step 2A transfer to left–hand needle, Step 2B then Step 3A/3B, insert the point of your right–hand needle through the back loop and knit it.

Decreasing. There are several methods of decreasing, the goal of which is to eliminate one or more stitches from your work. The most important thing about decreasing is that you need to change your method depending on where you need to decrease in your knitting. This is because decreasing affects the look of your knitting and is directional. If you use decreases correctly, they can add a polished look to your work. Use them incorrectly and they will be ugly and obvious. Choose your decrease technique based on whether you are working on the left or right side of your work.

Knit two together (K2tog): This is the easiest way to decrease, and the decrease will slant to the right.

Purl two together (P2tog): Insert the right–hand needle through the next two stitches and purl them together.

Slip one, knit one, pass slipped stitch over (SL1, K1, PSSO): Slip a stitch as if to purl (or purlwise), knit the next stitch, and pass the slipped stitch over the previously knitted stitch. The decrease will slant to the left.

Binding off as a method of decreasing: I’m often asked, “Why do I bind off instead of decreasing?” The difference is that binding off is eliminating more than one consecutive stitch and can only be done at the beginning of a row. For example, when shaping the armhole of a sweater, you will bind off at the beginning of a knit row for the right armhole and at the beginning of the purl row for the left armhole. Even though a decrease of a single stitch is generally done at the beginning of a row, it can also be used anywhere throughout the row.

Full fashion decreases: This means that the decreases on the armholes and sleeves have been knitted in such a way that they become a design feature, outlining the shaping of the separate pieces of knitting. To do this you will generally want to work your decreases only on the knit rows, and work all decreases two stitches in from the edge of your knitting. On the right side you will use K2tog, and on the left side you will use the slip one, knit one, pass slipped stitch over method.

[EDITH KNIT TIPS]

Increasing on the Second Stitch

I always tell my clients to increase on the second stitch rather than the first as this leaves you with a neater edge. It will also come in handy when it comes time to sew your sweater together.

[EDITH KNIT TIPS]

Using a Cable Needle Correctly

If you use a hook cable needle, make sure to remove the stitches from the left–hand needle with the short side and knit the stitches from the left–hand needle with the long side. By doing this, the stitches will automatically be twisted and face the correct direction.

CABLING

One technique that scares people the most is cabling. Well, you need not be frightened as this is one of the easiest of all to master. In a pattern a simple cable is very often referred to as a “4–stitch cable,” “6–stitch cable,” or “12–stitch cable.” This indicates how many stitches will be involved in the cable process. When cabling, you will also need a spare needle, called an auxiliary or cable needle, a needle that has a bend or hook feature.

Here’s an example of how to cable. Let’s say that the pattern calls for a 6–stitch cable. To make a “back cable,” which will form a slant to the right, follow this simple step:

With the tip of your cable needle, remove 3 stitches from your left–hand needle and let them rest in the curve of your cable needle; place them in the back of your work. Knit the 3 stitches on your left–hand needle, then knit the 3 from your cable needle. The cable is made.

To make a “front cable,” or left twist. Slip 3 stitches onto a cable needle and place it to the front of your work. Knit the 3 stitches from the left–hand needle, then knit the 3 from the cable needle. You have now mastered the art of cabling.

CABLE CAST ON

As you are knitting a sweater or a garment made in one piece, the instructions will indicate “cable cast on X stitches.” This is accomplished by adding stitches at the beginning of the row while your work is in progress. To do so, proceed as follows:

STEP 1: Insert your right–hand needle between the first and second stitches on the left–hand needle.

STEP 2: Pull up a loop.

STEP 3: Insert your left–hand needle under the loop that has been placed on the right–hand needle, then release it from the right–hand needle. Continue in this manner until you have cable cast on the number of stitches recommended in your pattern.

There are four simple skills that a knitter needs to master in order to consider themselves a proficient knitter: knitting, purling, increasing, and decreasing. I hope