How I Found Livingstone - Henry M. Stanley (best ereader for comics txt) 📗
- Author: Henry M. Stanley
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some of the men were heard challenging a small party of natives
which advanced towards our camp, headed by a man who, from his
garb and head-dress, we knew was from Zanzibar. After interchanging
the customary salutations, I was informed that this party was an
embassy from Simba (“Lion”), who ruled over Kasera, in Southern
Unyamwezi. Simba, I was told, was the son of Mkasiwa, King of
Unyanyembe, and was carrying on war with the Wazavira, of whom I was
warned to beware. He had heard such reports of my greatness that he
was sorry I did not take his road to Ukawendi, that he might have
had the opportunity of seeing me, and making friends with me; but
in the absence of a personal visit Simba had sent this embassy to
overtake me, in the hope that I would present him with a token of
my friendship in the shape of cloth. Though I was rather taken
aback by the demand, still it was politic in me to make this powerful
chief my friend, lest on my return from the search after Livingstone
he and I might fall out. And since it was incumbent on me to make
a present, for the sake of peace, it was necessary to exhibit my
desire for peace by giving—if I gave at all—a royal present.
The ambassador conveyed from me to Simba, or the “Lion” of Kasera,
two gorgeous cloths, and two other doti consisting of Merikani
and Kaniki; and, if I might believe the ambassador, I had made
Simba a friend for ever.
On the 18th of October, breaking camp at the usual hour, we
continued our march north-westward by a road which zig-zagged
along the base of the Kasera mountains, and which took us into
all kinds of difficulties. We traversed at least a dozen marshy
ravines, the depth of mire and water in which caused the utmost
anxiety. I sunk up to my neck in deep holes in the Stygian ooze
caused by elephants, and had to tramp through the oozy beds of
the Rungwa sources with any clothes wet and black with mud and slime.
Decency forbade that I should strip; and the hot sun would also
blister my body. Moreover, these morasses were too frequent to lose
time in undressing and dressing, and, as each man was weighted with
his own proper load, it would have been cruel to compel the men to
bear me across. Nothing remained, therefore, but to march on, all
encumbered as I was with my clothing and accoutrements, into these
several marshy watercourses, with all the philosophical stoicism
that my nature could muster for such emergencies. But it was very
uncomfortable, to say the least of it.
We soon entered the territory of the dreaded Wazavira, but no
enemy was in sight. Simba, in his wars, had made clean work of
the northern part of Uzavira, and we encountered nothing worse than
a view of the desolated country, which must have been once—judging
from the number of burnt huts and debris of ruined villages—extremely
populous. A young jungle was sprouting up vigorously in their
fields, and was rapidly becoming the home of wild denizens of the
forest. In one of the deserted and ruined villages, I found
quarters for the Expedition, which were by no means uncomfortable.
I shot three brace of guinea-fowl in the neighbourhood of Misonghi,
the deserted village we occupied, and Ulimengo, one of my hunters,
bagged an antelope, called the “mbawala,” for whose meat some of
the Wanyamwezi have a superstitious aversion. I take this species
of antelope, which stands about three and a half feet high, of a
reddish hide, head long, horns short, to be the “Nzoe” antelope
discovered by Speke in Uganda, and whose Latin designation is,
according to Dr. Sclater, Tragelaphus Spekii.” It has a short
bushy tail, and long hair along the spine.
A long march in a west-by-north direction, lasting six hours,
through a forest where the sable antelope was seen, and which was
otherwise prolific with game, brought us to a stream which ran by
the base of a lofty conical hill, on whose slopes flourished quite
a forest of feathery bamboo.
On the 20th, leaving our camp, which lay between the stream and
the conical hill above mentioned, and surmounting a low ridge which
sloped from the base of the hill-cone, we were greeted with another
picturesque view, of cones and scarped mountains, which heaved
upward in all directions. A march of nearly five hours through
this picturesque country brought us to the Mpokwa River, one of
the tributaries of the Rungwa, and to a village lately deserted
by the Wazavira. The huts were almost all intact, precisely as
they were left by their former inhabitants. In the gardens were
yet found vegetables, which, after living so long on meat, were
most grateful to us. On the branches of trees still rested the
Lares and Penates of the Wazavira, in the shape of large and
exceedingly well-made earthen pots.
In the neighbouring river one of my men succeeded, in few minutes,
in catching sixty fish of the silurus species the hand alone. A
number of birds hovered about stream , such as the white-headed
fish-eagle and the kingfisher, enormous, snowy spoonbills, ibis,
martins, &c. This river issued from a mountain clump eight miles
or so north of the village of Mpokwa, and comes flowing down a narrow
thread of water, sinuously winding amongst tall reeds and dense
brakes on either side-the home of hundreds of antelopes and buffaloes.
South of Mpokwa, the valley broadens, and the mountains deflect
eastward and westward, and beyond this point commences the plain
known as the Rikwa, which, during the Masika is inundated, but which,
in the dry season, presents the same bleached aspect that plains in
Africa generally do when the grass has ripened.
Travelling up along the right bank of the Mpokwa, on the 21st we
came to the head of the stream, and the sources of the Mpokwa,
issuing out of deep defiles enclosed by lofty ranges. The
mbawala and the buffalo were plentiful.
On the 22nd, after a march of four hours and a half, we came to the
beautiful stream of Mtambu—the water of which was sweet, and clear
as crystal, and flowed northward. We saw for the first time the
home of the lion and the leopard. Hear what Freiligrath says of
the place:
Where the thorny brake and thicket
Densely fill the interspace
Of the trees, through whose thick branches
Never sunshine lights the place,
There the lion dwells, a monarch,
Mightiest among the brutes;
There his right to reign supremest
Never one his claim disputes.
There he layeth down to slumber,
Having slain and ta’en his fill;
There he roameth, there be croucheth,
As it suits his lordly will.
We camped but a few yards from just such a place as the poet
describes. The herd-keeper who attended the goats and donkeys,
soon after our arrival in camp, drove the animals to water, and
in order to obtain it they travelled through a tunnel in the brake,
caused by elephants and rhinoceros. They had barely entered the
dark cavernous passage, when a black-spotted leopard sprang, and
fastened its fangs in the neck of one of the donkeys, causing it,
from the pain, to bray hideously. Its companions set up such a
frightful chorus, and so lashed their heels in the air at the
feline marauder, that the leopard bounded away through the brake,
as if in sheer dismay at the noisy cries which the attack had
provoked. The donkey’s neck exhibited some frightful wounds, but
the animal was not dangerously hurt.
Thinking that possibly I might meet with an adventure with a
lion or a leopard in that dark belt of tall trees, under whose
impenetrable shade grew the dense thicket that formed such
admirable coverts for the carnivorous species, I took a stroll
along the awesome place with the gunbearer, Kalulu, carrying an
extra gun, and a further supply of ammunition. We crept
cautiously along, looking keenly into the deep dark dens, the
entrances of which were revealed to us, as we journeyed, expectant
every moment to behold the reputed monarch of the brake and
thicket, bound forward to meet us, and I took a special delight
in picturing, in my imagination, the splendor and majesty of the
wrathful brute, as he might stand before me. I peered closely
into every dark opening, hoping to see the deadly glitter of the
great angry eyes, and the glowering menacing front of the lion as
he would regard me. But, alas! after an hour’s search for adventure,
I had encountered nothing, and I accordingly waxed courageous, and
crept into one of these leafy, thorny caverns, and found myself
shortly standing under a canopy of foliage that was held above my
head fully a hundred feet by the shapely and towering stems of the
royal mvule. Who can imagine the position? A smooth lawn-like glade;
a dense and awful growth of impenetrable jungle around us; those
stately natural pillars—a glorious phalanx of royal trees, bearing
at such sublime heights vivid green masses of foliage, through which
no single sun-ray penetrated, while at our feet babbled the primeval
brook, over smooth pebbles, in soft tones befitting the sacred quiet
of the scene! Who could have desecrated this solemn, holy harmony of
nature? But just as I was thinking it impossible that any man could
be tempted to disturb the serene solitude of the place, I saw a
monkey perched high on a branch over my head, contemplating, with
something of an awe-struck look, the strange intruders beneath.
Well, I could not help it, I laughed—laughed loud and long, until
I was hushed by the chaos of cries and strange noises which seemed
to respond to my laughing. A troop of monkeys, hidden in the
leafy depths above, had been rudely awakened, and, startled by
the noise I made, were hurrying away from the scene with a dreadful
clamor of cries and shrieks.
Emerging again into the broad sunlight, I strolled further in
search of something to shoot. Presently, I saw, feeding quietly
in the forest which bounded the valley of the Mtambu on the left,
a huge, reddish-coloured wild boar, armed with most horrid tusks.
Leaving Kalulu crouched down behind a tree, and my solar helmet
behind another close by—that I might more safely stalk the
animal—I advanced towards him some forty yards, and after taking
a deliberate aim, fired at his fore shoulder. As if nothing had hurt
him whatever, the animal made a furious bound, and then stood with
his bristles erected, and tufted tail, curved over the back—a most
formidable brute in appearance. While he was thus listening, and
searching the neighbourhood with his keen, small eyes, I planted
another shot in his chest, which ploughed its way through his body.
Instead of falling, however, as I expected he would, he charged
furiously in the direction the bullet had come, and as he rushed
past me, another ball was fired, which went right through him; but
still he kept on, until, within six or seven yards from the trees
behind which Kalulu was crouching down on one side, and the helmet
was resting behind another, he suddenly halted, and then dropped.
But as I was about to advance on him with my knife to cut his throat,
he suddenly started up; his eyes had caught sight of the little boy
Kalulu, and were then, almost immediately afterwards, attracted by
the sight of the snowy helmet. These strange objects on either side
of him proved too much for the boar, for, with a terrific grunt,
he darted on one side into a thick brake, from which it was
impossible to oust him, and as it was
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