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Title: The Physiology of Taste

 

Author: Brillat Savarin

 

Release Date: April, 2004 [EBook #5434]

[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule]

[This file was first posted on July 18, 2002]

 

Edition: 10

 

Language: English

 

Character set encoding: ASCII

 

*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE ***

 

Steve Harris, Charles Franks and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team.

 

THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE;

 

OR,

 

TRANSCENDENTAL GASTRONOMY.

 

ILLUSTRATED BY ANECDOTES OF DISTINGUISHED ARTISTS AND STATESMEN OF

 

BOTH CONTINENTS. BY BRILLAT SAVARIN.

 

TRANSLATED FROM THE LAST PARIS EDITION BY FAYETTE ROBINSON.

 

CONTENTS.

 

APHORISMS of the Professor to serve as Prolegomena to his work,

and Eternal basis of the Science,

 

DIALOGUE, between the Author and his Friend,

 

BIOGRAPHY,

 

PREFACE,

 

MEDITATION I.

THE SENSES,

 

Number of the Senses,

 

Action of the Senses,

 

Perfectness of the Senses,

 

Powers of the Taste,

 

Object of the Action of the Senses,

 

MEDITATION II.

TASTE,

 

Definition of Taste,

 

Mechanism of Taste,

 

Sensation of Taste,

 

Flavors,

 

Influence of Smelling on the Taste,

 

Analyses of the Sensation of Taste,

 

Order of the Impressions of Taste,

 

Enjoyments due to the Taste,

 

Supremacy of Man,

 

Method of the Author,

 

MEDITATION III.

GASTRONOMY,

 

Origin of Sciences,

 

Origin of Gastronomy,

 

Definition of Gastronomy,

 

Different objects of Gastronomy,

 

Utility of Gastronomical Knowledge,

 

Influence of Gastronomy on Business,

 

Gastronomical Academy,

 

MEDITATION IV.

APPETITE,

 

Definition of Appetite,

 

Anecdote,

 

Great Appetites,

 

MEDITATION V.

FOOD IN GERMS—Section First,

 

Definitions,

 

Analyses,

 

Osmazome,

 

Principle of Aliments,

 

Vegetable Kingdom,

 

Difference between Fat and Lean,

 

Individual Instance,

 

MEDITATION VI.

FOOD IN GERMS—Section Second,

 

Specialities,

 

I. Pot-au-feu, Potage, etc.,

 

II. Bouilli,

 

III. Fowls,

 

IV. The Turkey,

 

Dindoniphiles,

 

Financial Influence of the Turkey,

 

Exploit of the Professor,

 

V. Game,

 

VI. Fish,

 

Anecdote,

 

Muria—Garum,

 

Philosophical Reflection,

 

VII. Truffles,

 

Erratic Virtue of Truffles,

 

Are Truffles Indigestible,

 

VIII. Sugar,

 

Indigenous Sugar,

 

Uses of Sugur,

 

IX. Origin of Coffee,

 

Different Modes of preparing Coffee,

 

Effects of Coffee,

 

X. Chocolate—its origin,

 

Properties of Chocolate,

 

True Method of preparing Chocolate,

 

MEDITATION VII.

THEORY OF FRYING,

 

Allocution,

 

I. Chemistry,

 

II. Application,

 

MEDITATION VIII.

ON THIRST,

 

Varieties of Thirst,

 

Causes of Thirst,

 

Example,

 

MEDITATION IX.

ON DRINKS,

 

Water,

 

Quick effect of Drinks,

 

Strong Drinks,

 

MEDITATION X.

AN EPISODE ON THE END OF THE WORLD,

 

MEDITATION XI.

ON GOURMANDISE,

 

Definitions,

 

Advantages of Gourmandise,

 

Sequel,

 

Power of Gourmandise,

 

A Lady Gourmand,

 

Anecdote,

 

Are Women Gourmands?

 

The effects of Gourmandise of Sociability,

 

Influence of Gourmandise on Conjugal Happiness,

 

Note of a Patriot Gastronomer,

 

MEDITATION XII.

GOURMANDS,

 

All who wish to be are not Gourmands,

 

Napoleon,

 

Gourmands by Destiny,

 

Gourmands by Profession,

 

Financiers,

 

Physicians,

 

Objurgation,

 

Men of Letters,

 

Devotees,

 

Chevaliers and Abbes,

 

Longevity of Gourmands,

 

MEDITATION XIII.

GASTRONOMICAL TESTS,

 

First Series—Income of 5,000 francs,

 

Second Series—Income of 15,000 francs,

 

Third Series—Income of 30,000 francs, or more,

 

MEDITATION XIV. ON THE PLEASURES OF THE TABLE,

 

Origin of the Pleasures of the Table,

 

Difference between the Pleasures of Eating and the Pleasures

of the Table,

 

Effects,

 

Accessories,

 

The 18th and 19th Century,

 

Summary,

 

MEDITATION XV.

HALTES DE CHASSE,

 

Ladies,

 

MEDITATION XVI.

ON DIGESTION,

 

Ingestion,

 

Duty of the Stomach,

 

Influence of Digestion,

 

MEDITATION XVII.

REPOSE,

 

Time of Rest,

 

MEDITATION XVIII.

SLEEP,

 

Definition,

 

MEDITATION XIX.

DREAMS,

 

Nature of Dreams,

 

System of Dr. Gall,

 

First Observation,

 

Second Observation,

 

Result,

 

Age,

 

Phenomena of Dreams,

 

First Observation,

 

Second Observation,

 

Third Observation,

 

Do as you will be done by,

 

MEDITATION XX.

INFLUENCE OF DIET ON REST, SLEEP AND DREAMS,

 

Effects of Diet on Labor,

 

Dreams,

 

Consequence,

 

Result,

 

MEDITATION XXI. OBESITY,

 

Causes of Obesity,

 

Sequel,

 

Sequel,

 

Anecdote,

 

Inconvenience of Obesity,

 

Examples of Obesity,

 

MEDITATION XXII.

PRESERVATIVE TREATMENT AND CURE OF OBESITY,

 

Generalities,

 

Sequel of the Regimen,

 

Dangers of Acids,

 

Antiobesic Belt,

 

Quinquina,

 

MEDITATION XXIII.

THINNESS,

 

Definition,

 

Varieties,

 

Effects of Thinness,

 

Natural Predestination,

 

Fattening Regimen,

 

MEDITATION XXIV.

FASTING,

 

Definition,

 

Origin,

 

How people used to Fast,

 

Origin of the removal of Restriction in Fasting,

 

MEDITATION XXV.

EXHAUSTION,

 

Treatment,

 

Cure by the Professor,

 

MEDITATION XXVI.

DEATH,

 

MEDITATION XXVII.

PHILOSOPHICAL HISTORY OF THE KITCHEN,

 

Order of Alimentation,

 

Discovery of Fire,

 

Baking,

 

Oriental Entertainments—Grecian,

 

Roman Festivals,

 

Resurrection of Lucullus,

 

Poetry,

 

Irruption of the Barbarians,

 

MEDITATION XXVIII.

RESTAURATEURS,

 

Establishment,

 

PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE—Part Second,

 

TRANSITION,

 

VARIETIES,

I. L’omelette du Cure,

 

Omelette au Thon,

 

Observations,

 

II. A National Victory,

 

III. Mystification of the Professor and Defeat of a General,

 

IV. The Snare,

 

V. The Turbot,

 

VI. Pheasants,

 

VII. Gastronomical Industry of the Emigres,

 

VIII. Recollections of the Emigration,

 

The Weaver,

 

The Starving,

 

Sojourn in America,

 

Asparagus,

 

Fondue,

 

Recipe for Fondue, Copied from the Papers of M. Trollet,

Bailli of Mondon in Berne,

 

Disappointment,

 

Wonderful Effects of a Classical Dinner,

 

Effects and Danger of Strong Drinks,

 

Chevaliers and Abbes,

 

Miscellany—Wine,

 

Strawberries,

 

Judgment,

 

Raisins,

 

A Day with the Bernardines,

 

Prosperity en route,

 

H. … DeP …,

 

Conclusion,

 

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH.

 

The excellent man to whom we are indebted for this book has

described himself, with so much charm, nature and truth; the

principal events of his life have been recorded in such an

agreeable and faithful manner that very few words will suffice to

finish the story.

 

Brillat Savarin (Anthelme) Counsel of the Court of Cassation,

member of the Legion of Honor, member of the Society for the

Encouragement of National Industry, of the Antiquarian Society of

France, of the Philoselic Society of Bourg, &c., &c., was born,

1st of April, 1755, at Belley, a little Alpine city, not far from

the banks of the Rhine, which at this place separates France from

Savoy. Like his forefathers, who had been for several generations

devoted to the bar, the profession which pleased him, in

consequence of his possession of great eloquence, he practised

with great success.

 

In, 1789, the unanimous vote of his fellow citizens deputed him

to the Constituent assembly, composed of all that was most

brilliant in the youth of France at that day. Less attached in

practice to the philosophy of Zeno than that of Epicurus, his name

does not figure very conspicuously, but always appears at epochs,

which show that he acted with the good and moderate.

 

His legislative functions being determined by the expiration of

the Constituent Assembly, he was first appointed President of the

Superior Civil court of the Department of Ain, and subsequently a

Justice of the Court of Cassation, newly instituted; a man of

talent, perfectly incorruptible and unhesitating in the discharge

of his duty, he would have been precisely calculated for the place

to which he had been appointed, had the warmth of political

discussion made practicable the advice either of moderation or of

prudence. In 1793, he was Mayor of Belley, and passed in anxiety

there, the season of the reign of Terror; whence he was forced to

fly to Switzerland for an asylum against the revolutionary

movement. Nothing can better man, without a personal enemy, should

be forced to pass in a foreign land the days he purposed to devote

to the improvement of his country.

 

This is the point when the character of Brillat Savarin assumes

its grandest proportions; proscribed, a fugitive, and often

without pecuniary resources, frequently unable to provide for his

personal safety, he was always able to console his companions in

exile and set them an example of honest industry. As time rolled

on, and his situation became more painful, he sought to find in

the new world a repose which Europe denied him; he came from

Europe, and in Boston, New York, Philadelphia, and Hartford passed

two years teaching the French language, and for a time playing the

first violin in the orchestra of the Park Theatre. Like many other

emigres, Brillat Savarin ever sought to make the pleasant and the

useful coincide. He always preserved very pleasant recollection of

this period of his life, in which he enjoyed, with moderate labor,

all that is necessary for happiness, liberty sweetened by honest

toil. He might say all is well, and to be able to enjoy the breath

of my native land would alone increase my happiness; he fancied

that he saw brighter days with the commencement of Vendemiaire

year 5, corresponding to September, of 1796. Appointed by the

Directory, as Secretary of the General in Chief of the Republican

armies in Germany, then Commisary of the government in the

department of the Seine and Oise, (this appointment he held at the

epoch of the 18th Brumaire, in which France fancied she exchanged

liberty for repose,) sustained by the Senate and the Court,

Brillat Savarin passed the remaining twenty-five years of his life

respected by his inferiors, loved by his equals, and honored by

all. A man of mind, a pleasant guest, with a deep fund of humor,

he delighted every body. His judicial labors did not at all

interfere with the composition of this book, which he esteemed the

great one of his life.

 

To the very facility of its composition, the “Physiology of the

Taste,” owes its success; one would form a very erroneous opinion

of it, were he to estimate it at all as we do Montaigue’s writings

on the Gueule. Savarin was naturally a thoughtful man, the

simplest meal satisfied him, all he required was that it should be

prepared artistically; and he maintained that the art of cookery

consisted in exciting the taste. He used to say, “to excite a

stomach of Papier Mache, and enliven vital powers almost