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desert and the green of the tropical foliage always comes back to brighten the panorama.

And the crowds of people from all parts of the world, each dressed in his and her natural costume, every style of dress and every color under the sun. And the milds of bazars, little booths about ten feet square but all runninā€™ over with the richest embroideries, silken fabrics, gold, silver, amber and everything else gorgeous. Then there is the new part of Cairo, the broad, long streets lined with magnificent buildinā€™s. The great Citadel of Cairo and the Alabaster Mosque up on a rocky height, six hundred feet above the city. The Citadel wuz built by Saladin in 1100, most a thousand years ago. Where is Mr. Saladin and his folks? and his dynasty? All forgot centuries ago, but the work he thought out is here still. The Mosque is the only buildingā€™ in the world built of alabaster; it wuz begun by Mehemet Ali, the great-grandfather of the Khedive. The alabaster looks like satin, amber and white color, mebby some of my readers have got a little alabaster box or figger that they set store by, it is so costly and fine. Then think of a hull buildinā€™ three hundred feet square built of it. The ruff is uplifted by alabaster columns; the alabaster galleries are a hundred feet above the floor. The gilded dome can be seen 266 twenty or thirty milds away. The view from the terrace in front is so beautiful that you donā€™t want to leave it. The city lies before you and a long view of the Nile, rich gardens, green fields, towering palms, the pyramids standinā€™ like ghosts out of the past, Memphis, oldest city of the world. Turn your head and there is the land of Goshen; how many times amidst the overwhelminā€™ cares of a Jonesville kitchen have we mentioned ā€œLand of Goshen,ā€ but solemn now to look at and contemplate as the home of the patriarchs. Only two milds off down the Nile is the spot where Napoleon fought with the Mamelukes and won the Battle of the Pyramids. And jest under you as you look down, you see the ruff of the Egyptian Museum where the body of Ramesis lays, once rulinā€™ with a high hand he and his folks, as many as a dozen of ā€™em, over all the land our stranger eyes looked down on. But now theyā€™re nothinā€™ but a side show, as you may say in a museum.

Josiah wuz dretful took with the sights of shops on either side of the narrow streets of old Cairo and all sorts of trades beinā€™ carried on there right out doors: goldsmiths and silversmiths makinā€™ their jewelry right there before you, and Josiah sez: ā€œI lay out to have a shop rigged out doors to hum and make brooms and feather dusters; and why donā€™t you, Samantha; how uneek it would be for you to have your sewinā€™-machine or your quiltinā€™-frames in the corner of the fence between us and old Bobbettā€™s, and have a bedquilt or a crazy blanket draped behind you on the fence. You could have a kind of a turban if you wanted to; I would lend you one of my bandannas. Iā€™m goinā€™ to wear ā€™em in my bazar when I rig one up, and my dressinā€™-gown, and I shall have Ury wear one and sandals. I can make some crackinā€™ good sandals for us all out of shingles, and lace ā€™em on with colored ribbins. How dressy they will make me look. I shall lace my sandals on with yeller and red baby ribbin, them colors are so becominā€™ and make my complexion look fairer. We shall jest coin money out of my bazar, and I shall write 267 to Ury to put in a piece of broom corn, and mebby we shall make jewelry; we could make some good mourninā€™ jewelry out of coal and lam-black.ā€

Well, I didnā€™t argy with him, thinkinā€™ most probable that heā€™d forgit it, but Arvilly, who wuz with us, sez: ā€œI guess it would be mourninā€™ jewelry in good earnest if you made it; I guess it would make anybody mourn to see it, let alone wearinā€™ it.ā€

ā€œWait till you see it,ā€ sez he.

And she sez, ā€œI am perfectly willinā€™ to wait.ā€

ā€œBut I shanā€™t set on the floor as they do here,ā€ sez he, ā€œI am sorry for some of them poor old men that canā€™t afford chairs, and I would be perfectly willinā€™ to make ā€™em some stools if theyā€™d furnish the lumber.ā€

Sez I, ā€œItā€™s their way, Josiah, they like it.ā€

ā€œI donā€™t believe it,ā€ sez he; ā€œnobody loves to scrooch down flat with their legs under ā€™em numb as sticks.ā€ But right whilst we were talkinā€™ we met a funeral procession. The head one had hard work to git through the crowd crying out:

ā€œThere is no deity but God! Mohammed is his apostle!ā€ Then come some boys singinā€™ a funeral him; and then the bier, borne by friends of the corpse and covered by a handsome shawl. Then come the hired mournersā€“ā€“wimmenā€“ā€“for I spoze they think theyā€™re used to mourninā€™ and can earn their money better. ā€™Tennyrate, these screeched and wailed and tore their hair and beat their breast-bone as if they meant to earn their money. Then come the relatives and friends. Of course, they no need to have wepā€™ a tear, havinā€™ hired it done. But they did seem to feel real bad, they couldnā€™t have wept and wailed any more if they had been hired to. Josiah sez:

ā€œSamantha, when Iā€™m took, if you hire anybody to mourn get some better lookinā€™ females than these. I had almost ruther die onlamented than to have such lookinā€™ creeters weepinā€™ over my remains; now some fair lookinā€™ females such 268 as sister Celestine Bobbett and she that wuz Submit Tewksburyā€“ā€“ā€“ā€

But I interrupted him by telling him truly that no hired tears would fall on his beloved face if I outlived him, and no boughten groans would be hearn. Sez I, ā€œThe tears of true love and grief would bedew your forward.ā€

ā€œWell,ā€ sez he, ā€œit would be my wishes.ā€

As we wended our way along we met several water-carriers with leather bottles, jest such a one as Hagar took with her and Ishmael out in the desert, and it wuz on this same desert whose sands wuz siftinā€™ in about us every chance it had that she lay the child down to die and angels come and fed him. And, also, it beinā€™ along towards night we met several shepherds; one wuz carryinā€™ a tired lamb in his arms. They wuz patriarkal in appearance and dressed jest like the Bible pictures. I felt as though I had met Abraham or Isaac onbeknown to them.

Another sight that impressed my pardner fearfully wuz the howlinā€™ dervishesā€“ā€“weā€™d hearn about ā€™em a sight, and so we thought we would go and hear ā€™em howl. By payinā€™ a little backsheesh (which is money) we got permission to attend one of their religious meetinā€™s. There wuz a chief or Sheik, which Josiah always called a ā€œshackā€ā€“ā€“and I dā€™no but he wuz well namedā€“ā€“and about twenty or thirty howlers in long white robes. They made a low bow to the Shack and then knelt round him in a circle; then they bowed agin a number of times clear to the floor and begun to sing or pray. I dā€™no what you would call it, but the axents wuz dretful and the music that accompanied it harrowinā€™ in the extreme. Then they got up and bowed agin to the Shack and begun to shake their heads and their arms and their feet rapid and voylent, all keepinā€™ time to the music, or what I spoze they called music, their hair hanginā€™ loose, their yellinā€™ fearful, and then they begun to whirl like a top spinninā€™ round, faster and faster, whirlinā€™ and howlinā€™ and shriekinā€™ till they couldnā€™t howl or whirl any longer. Then the meetinā€™ 269 broke up as you may say, they formed a half circle agin round the Shack, bowed to the ground before him and fell down perfectly wore out on the floor. I should have thought theyā€™d died. Why, I couldnā€™t have stood it and lived nor Josiah couldnā€™t; it wuz all we could stand to see it go on.

One day Miss Meechim and I visited an American Mission School for Arab and Egyptian children, and it wuz from one of these very schools that one of the Rajahs or native princes took his wife. She wuz a little donkey driver, and the teacher of the Mission, liking her and pitying her, got permission of her mother (a poor donkey driver of Cairo living in a mud hut) to take the child into her school. When she wuz about fourteen years old the Rajah, who had accepted the Christian religion, visited this school, and the little girl wuz teaching a class of barefooted Egyptian girls, sittinā€™ on the floor about her.

Who can tell the mysteries of love? Like lightning it strikes where it will and must. Why should this Prince, educated in England, a friend of Queen Victoria, who had seen beautiful women all his days onmoved, why should he fall in love with this little girl, late a donkey driver in the streets of Cairo?

I dā€™no, but so it wuz, and he told the lady in charge of the school that he wanted to make her his wife. She wuz greatly surprised, and not knowinā€™ he wuz what he said he wuz, asked him polite to go away and select some other bride. But the next day he come back, sent in his card and a autograph letter from Queen Victoria, and agin expressed his desire to marry the bright-eyed little Egyptian.

When the subject wuz broached to her she wepā€™ and pleaded not to be sold into slavery, spozinā€™ that wuz what it meant. But the Prince made her understand that he wanted her for his wife, and she consented to be educated in a fitting manner, and at last the weddinā€™ took place at the home of the teacher.

The Prince took his wife to London, where she wuz presented 270 at Court, and makes him a good wife, so fur as I know, and they say sheā€™s dretful good to the poor; ā€™tennyrate the Prince must think a good deal of her, for he presented every year one thousand pounds to help on the school where he found his Princess. This story is true and is stranger than most lies.

I spoze that from that time on all the dark-eyed little Egyptian maids in that school wuz lookinā€™ out anxiously to see some prince cominā€™ in and claim ā€™em and make a royal princess of ā€™em. But one swallow donā€™t make a spring; I donā€™t spoze there has been or will be agin such a romance.

Josiah said that we must not leave Cairo without seeinā€™ Pharo. Josiah said he felt real well acquainted with him, havinā€™ read about him so much. Sez he, ā€œHe wuz a mean creeter as ever trod shoe-leather and Iā€™d love to tell him so.ā€

They keep him in the Museum of Cairo now, a purpose, I spoze, to scare folks from doinā€™ what he did, for a humblier lookinā€™ creeter I never see, and hard lookinā€™; I donā€™t wonder a mite at the bad things Iā€™ve hearn tell on him; why, a man that looked like that wuz sure to be mean as pusley. He looked as if he wuz beinā€™ plagued now with every single plague that fell on him for his cruelty and I dā€™no but he is. I wonder that the Israelites got along with him so long as they did; Josiah wouldnā€™t have stood it a week, heā€™s that quick-tempered and despises the idee of beinā€™ bossed round, and how Pharo did drive them poor children of Israel round; ground ā€™em right down to his terms, wouldnā€™t let ā€™em say their soul wuz their own, worked ā€™em most to death, half starved ā€™em, wouldnā€™t give ā€™em any rights, not a single right. But as I sez to Josiah, he got his come-up-ance for his heartless cruelty, he got plagued enough and drownded in the bargain.

Heā€™s a mummy now. Yes, as Josiah sez when he looked on him:

ā€œYouā€™ve got to be mum now, no givinā€™ orders to your poor overworked hired help in your brick-fields, not lettinā€™ 271 ā€™em have even a straw that they begged for to lighten their burden. The descendants of them folks you driv round can stand here and poke fun at you all day and youā€™ve got to keep your mouth shet. Yes,ā€ sez he, ā€œyouā€™ve got to a place now where you canā€™t be yellinā€™ out your orders, youā€™ve got to be mum, for youā€™re a mummy.ā€

I didnā€™t love to have Josiah stand and sass Pharo right to his face, but it seemed so gratifyinā€™ to him I

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