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CONTENTS

CHAPTER I. The PartyAcross America to VancouverOn Board the WarrimoSteamer Chairs-The Captain-Going Home under a CloudA Gritty PurserThe Brightest PassengerRemedy for Bad HabitsThe Doctor and the Lumbago A Moral PauperLimited SmokingRemittance-men.


CHAPTER II. Change of CostumeFish, Snake, and Boomerang StoriesTests of Memory A Brahmin ExpertGeneral Grant's MemoryA Delicately Improper Tale


CHAPTER III. HonoluluReminiscences of the Sandwich IslandsKing Liholiho and His Royal EquipmentThe TabuThe Population of the IslandA Kanaka Diver Cholera at HonoluluHonolulu; Past and PresentThe Leper Colony


CHAPTER IV. Leaving HonoluluFlying-fishApproaching the EquatorWhy the Ship Went SlowThe Front Yard of the ShipCrossing the EquatorHorse Billiards or Shovel BoardThe Waterbury WatchWashing DecksShip PaintersThe Great MeridianThe Loss of a DayA Babe without a Birthday


CHAPTER V. A lesson in PronunciationReverence for Robert BurnsThe Southern CrossTroublesome ConstellationsVictoria for a NameIslands on the MapAlofa and FortunaRecruiting for the Queensland Plantations Captain Warren's NoteBookRecruiting not thoroughly Popular


CHAPTER VI. Missionaries Obstruct BusinessThe Sugar Planter and the KanakaThe Planter's ViewCivilizing the Kanaka The Missionary's ViewThe Result Repentant KanakasWrinklesThe Death Rate in Queensland


CHAPTER VII. The Fiji IslandsSuvaThe Ship from DuluthGoing AshoreMidwinter in FijiSeeing the GovernorWhy Fiji was Ceded to EnglandOld time FijiansConvicts among the FijiansA Case Where Marriage was a Failure Immortality with Limitations


CHAPTER VIII. A Wilderness of IslandsTwo Men without a CountryA Naturalist from New ZealandThe Fauna of AustralasiaAnimals, Insects, and BirdsThe OrnithorhynchusPoetry and Plagiarism


CHAPTER IX.

Close to AustraliaPorpoises at NightEntrance to Sydney HarborThe Loss of the Duncan DunbarThe HarborThe City of SydneySpring-time in AustraliaThe ClimateInformation for TravelersThe Size of Australia A Dust-Storm and Hot Wind


CHAPTER X. The Discovery of AustraliaTransportation of ConvictsDiscipline English Laws, Ancient and ModernFlogging Prisoners to DeathArrival of SettlersNew South Wales CorpsRum CurrencyIntemperance Everywhere $100,000 for One Gallon of RumDevelopment of the CountryImmense Resources


CHAPTER XI. Hospitality of English-speaking PeopleWriters and their GratitudeMr. Gane and the PanegyricsPopulation of Sydney An English City with American Trimming"Squatters"Palaces and Sheep KingdomsWool and MuttonAustralians and AmericansCostermonger PronunciationEngland is "Home"Table TalkEnglish and Colonial Audiences 124


CHAPTER XII. Mr. X., a MissionaryWhy Christianity Makes Slow Progress in IndiaA Large DreamHindoo Miracles and LegendsSampson and HanumanThe Sandstone RidgeWhere are the Gates?


CHAPTER XIII. Public Works in AustralasiaBotanical Garden of SydneyFour Special SocialtiesThe Government HouseA Governor and His FunctionsThe Admiralty HouseThe Tour of the HarborShark FishingCecil Rhodes' Shark and his First FortuneFree Board for Sharks.


CHAPTER XIV. Bad HealthTo Melbourne by RailMaps DefectiveThe Colony of Victoria A Round-trip Ticket from SydneyChange Cars, from Wide to Narrow Gauge, a Peculiarity at AlburyCustoms-fences"My Word"The Blue MountainsRabbit PilesGovernment R. R. RestaurantsDuchesses for Waiters"Sheep-dip"Railroad CoffeeThings Seen and Not Seen


CHAPTER XV. Wagga-WaggaThe Tichborne ClaimantA Stock MysteryThe Plan of the RomanceThe RealizationThe Henry Bascom MysteryBascom HallThe Author's Death and Funeral


CHAPTER XVI. Melbourne and its AttractionsThe Melbourne Cup RacesCup DayGreat CrowdsClothes Regardless of CostThe Australian LarrikinIs He Dead? Australian HospitalityMelbourne Wool-brokersThe MuseumsThe Palaces The Origin of Melbourne


CHAPTER XVII. The British EmpireIts Exports and ImportsThe Trade of AustraliaTo AdelaideBroken Hill Silver MineA Roundabout roadThe Scrub and its Possibilities for the NovelistThe Aboriginal TrackerA Test CaseHow Does One Cow-Track Differ from Another?


CHAPTER XVIII. Gum TreesUnsociable TreesGorse and BroomA universal DefectAn AdventurerWanted L200, got L20,000,000A Vast Land SchemeThe Smash-upThe Corpse Got Up and DancedA Unique Business by One Man Buying the Kangaroo SkinThe Approach to AdelaideEverything Comes to Him who WaitsA Healthy Religious sphereWhat is the Matter with the Specter?


CHAPTER XIX.

The Botanical GardensContributions from all CountriesThe Zoological Gardens of AdelaideThe Laughing JackassThe DingoA Misnamed ProvinceTelegraphing from Melbourne to San FranciscoA Mania for HolidaysThe TemperatureThe Death RateCelebration of the Reading of the Proclamation of 1836Some old Settlers at the CommemorationTheir Staying PowersThe Intelligence of the Aboriginal The Antiquity of the Boomerang


CHAPTER XX. A CallerA Talk about Old TimesThe Fox HuntAn Accurate Judgment of an IdiotHow We Passed the Custom Officers in Italy


CHAPTER XXI. The "Weet-Weet"Keeping down the PopulationVictoriaKilling the AboriginalsPioneer Days in QueenslandMaterial for a DramaThe Bush Pudding with Arsenic RevengeA Right Spirit but a Wrong MethodDeath of Donga Billy


CHAPTER XXII. Continued Description of AboriginalsManly QualitiesDodging Balls Feats of SpringJumpingWhere the Kangaroo Learned its Art 'Well DiggingEnduranceSurgeryArtistic AbilitiesFennimore Cooper's Last ChanceAustralian Slang


CHAPTER XXIII. To Horsham (Colony of Victoria)Description of HorshamAt the Hotel Pepper Tree-The Agricultural College, Forty PupilsHigh Temperature Width of Road in Chains, Perches, etc.The Bird with a Forgettable NameThe Magpie and the LadyFruit TreesSoilsSheep ShearingTo Stawell Gold Mining Country$75,000 per Month Income and able to Keep House Fine Grapes and WineThe Dryest Community on EarthThe Three Sisters Gum Trees and Water


CHAPTER XXIV.

Road to BallaratThe CityGreat Gold Strike, 1851Rush for Australia "Great Nuggets"TaxationRevolt and VictoryPeter Lalor and the Eureka Stockade"Pencil Mark"Fine Statuary at BallaratPopulation Ballarat English


CHAPTER XXV. Bound for BendigoThe Priest at CastlemaineTime Saved by Walking Description of BendigoA Valuable NuggetPerseverence and Success Mr. Blank and His InfluenceConveyance of an IdeaI Had to Like the IrishmanCorrigan Castle, and the Mark Twain ClubMy Bascom Mystery Solved


CHAPTER XXVI. Where New Zealand IsBut Few KnowThings People Think They KnowThe Yale Professor and His Visitor from N. Z.


CHAPTER XXVII. The South Pole SwellTasmaniaExtermination of the NativesThe Picture ProclamationThe ConciliatorThe Formidable Sixteen


CHAPTER XXVIII. When the Moment Comes the Man AppearsWhy Ed. Jackson called on Commodore VanderbiltTheir InterviewWelcome to the Child of His Friend A Big Time but under InspectionSent on Important BusinessA Visit to the Boys on the Boat


CHAPTER XXIX: Tasmania, Early DaysDescription of the Town of HobartAn Englishman's Love of Home SurroundingsNeatest City on EarthThe MuseumA Parrot with an Acquired TasteGlass Arrow BeadsRefuge for the Indigent too healthy


CHAPTER XXX. Arrival at Bluff, N. Z.Where the Rabbit Plague BeganThe Natural Enemy of the RabbitDunedinA Lovely TownVisit to Dr. HockinHis Museum A Liquified CaterpillarThe Unperfected Tape WormThe Public Museum and Picture


CHAPTER XXXI. The Express Train"A Hell of a Hotel at Maryborough" Clocks and BellsRailroad Service.


CHAPTER XXXII. Description of the Town of Christ ChurchA Fine MuseumJade-stone TrinketsThe Great ManThe First Maori in New ZealandWomen Voters "Person" in New Zealand Law Includes WomanTaming an Ornithorhynchus A Voyage in the 'Flora' from LytteltonCattle Stalls for Everybody A Wonderful Time.


CHAPTER XXXIII. The Town of Nelson"The Mongatapu Murders," the Great Event of the Town Burgess' ConfessionSummit of Mount EdenRotorua and the Hot Lakes and GeysersThermal Springs DistrictKauri GumTangariwa Mountains


CHAPTER XXXIV. The Bay of GisborneTaking in Passengers by the Yard ArmThe Green Ballarat FlyFalse TeethFrom Napier to Hastings by the Ballarat Fly TrainKauri TreesA Case of Mental Telegraphy


CHAPTER XXXV. Fifty Miles in Four HoursComfortable CarsTown of WauganuiPlenty of MaorisOn the IncreaseCompliments to the MaorisThe Missionary Ways all WrongThe Tabu among the MaorisA Mysterious SignCurious War-monumentsWellington


CHAPTER XXXVI. The Poems of Mrs. MooreThe Sad Fate of William UpsonA Fellow Traveler Imitating the Prince of WalesA Would-be DudeArrival at Sydney Curious Town Names with Poem


CHAPTER XXXVII. From Sydney for CeylonA Lascar CrewA Fine ShipThree Cats and a Basket of KittensDinner ConversationsVeuve Cliquot WineAt Anchor in King George's Sound Albany HarborMore CatsA Vulture on BoardNearing the Equator againDressing for DinnerCeylon, Hotel BristolServant BrampyA Feminine ManJapanese Jinriksha or CartScenes in CeylonA Missionary SchoolInsincerity of Clothes


CHAPTER XXXVIII. Steamer Rosettes to BombayLimes 14 cents a BarrelBombay, a Bewitching CityDescriptions of People and DressWoman as a Road Decoration India, the Land of Dreams and RomanceFourteen Porters to Carry Baggage Correcting a ServantKilling a SlaveArranging a BedroomThree Hours' Work and a Terrible RacketThe Bird of Birds, the Indian Crow


CHAPTER XXXIX. God Vishnu, 108 NamesChange of Titles or Hunting for an HeirBombay as a KaleidoscopeThe Native's Man ServantServants' RecommendationsHow Manuel got his Name and his EnglishSatanA Visit from God


CHAPTER XL. The Government House at Malabar PointMansion of Kumar Shri Samatsin Hji BahadurThe Indian PrincessA Difficult GameWardrobe and Jewels CeremonialsDecorations when LeavingThe Towers of SilenceA Funeral


CHAPTER XLI. Jain TempleMr. Roychand's BungalowA Decorated Six-Gun PrinceHuman FireworksEuropean Dress, Past and PresentComplexionsAdvantages with the ZuluFestivities at the Bungalow-Nautch DancersEntrance of the PrinceAddress to the Prince


CHAPTER XLII. A Hindoo Betrothal, midnight, Sleepers on the ground, Home of the Bride of Twelve Years Dressed as a BoyIllumination Nautch GirlsImitating SnakesLaterIlluminated Porch Filled with SleepersThe Plague


CHAPTER XLIII Murder Trial in BombayConfidence SwindlersSome Specialities of India The Plague, Juggernaut, Suttee, etc.Everything on Gigantic Scale India First in Everything80 States, more Custom Houses than CatsRich Ground for Thug Society


CHAPTER XLIV. Thug BookSupplies for Traveling, Bedding, and other FreightScene at Railway StationMaking Way for White ManWaiting Passengers, High and Low Caste, Touch in the carsOur CarBeds made upDreaming of Thugs BarodaMeet FriendsIndian WellThe Old TownNarrow StreetsA Mad Elephant

CHAPTER XLV.

Elephant RidingHowdahsThe New PalaceThe Prince's ExcursionGold and Silver ArtilleryA Vice-royal VisitRemarkable DogThe Bench Show Augustin Daly's Back DoorFakeer


CHAPTER XLVI. The ThugsGovernment Efforts to Exterminate themChoking a Victim A Fakeer SparedThief Strangled


CHAPTER XLVII. Thugs, ContinuedRecord of MurdersA Joy of Hunting and Killing Men Gordon GummingKilling an ElephantFamily Affection among Thugs Burial Places


CHAPTER XLVIII. Starting for AllahabadLower Berths in SleepersElderly Ladies have Preference of BerthsAn American Lady Takes One AnyhowHow Smythe Lost his BerthHow He Got EvenThe Suttee


CHAPTER XLIX. PyjamasDay Scene in IndiaClothed in a Turban and a Pocket HandkerchiefLand Parceled OutEstablished Village ServantsWitches in FamiliesHereditary MidwiferyDestruction of Girl BabiesWedding DisplayTiger-PersuaderHailstorm DiscouragesThe Tyranny of the SweeperElephant DriverWater CarrierCurious RiversArrival at AllahabadEnglish QuarterLecture Hall Like a SnowstormPrivate CarriagesA MillinerEarly MorningThe Squatting ServantA Religious Fair


CHAPTER L. On the Road to BenaresDust and WaitingThe Bejeweled CrowdA Native Prince and his GuardZenana LadyThe Extremes of FashionThe Hotel at BenaresAn Annex a Mile AwayDoors in IndiaThe Peepul TreeWarning against Cold BathsA Strange FruitDescription of BenaresThe Beginning of CreationPilgrims to BenaresA Priest with a Good Business StandProtestant MissionaryThe Trinity Brahma, Shiva, and Vishnu Religion the Business at Benares


CHAPTER LI. Benares a Religious TempleA Guide for Pilgrims to Save Time in Securing Salvation


CHAPTER LII. A Curious Way to Secure SalvationThe Banks of the GangesArchitecture Represents PietyA Trip on the RiverBathers and their Costumes Drinking the WaterA Scientific Test of the Nasty PurifierHindoo Faith in the GangesA CremationRemembrances of the SutteeAll Life Sacred Except Human LifeThe Goddess Bhowanee, and the SacrificersSacred MonkeysUgly Idols EverywhereTwo White MinaretsA Great View with a Monkey in itA Picture on the Water


CHAPTER LIII. Still in BenaresAnother Living GodWhy Things are WonderfulSri 108 Utterly PerfectHow He Came soOur Visit to SriA Friendly Deity Exchanging Autographs and BooksSri's PupilAn Interesting Man Reverence and IrreverenceDancing in a Sepulchre


CHAPTER LIV. Rail to CalcuttaPopulationThe "City of Palaces"A Fluted Candle-stickOchterlonyNewspaper CorrespondenceAverage Knowledge of CountriesA Wrong Idea of ChicagoCalcutta and the Black Hole Description of the HorrorsThose Who LivedThe Botanical GardensThe Afternoon TurnoutGrand ReviewMilitary TournamentExcursion on the HooglyThe MuseumWhat Winter Means Calcutta


CHAPTER LV On the Road AgainFlannels in OrderAcross CountryFrom Greenland's Icy MountainSwapping CivilizationNo Field women in IndiaHow it is in Other CountriesCanvas-covered CarsThe Tiger CountryMy First Hunt Some Elephants Get AwayThe Plains of IndiaThe GhurkasWomen for Pack-HorsesA Substitute for a CabDarjeelingThe HotelThe Highest Thing in the HimalayasThe ClubKinchinjunga and Mt. Everest ThibetansThe Prayer WheelPeople Going to the Bazar


CHAPTER LVI. On the Road AgainThe Hand-CarA Thirty-five-mile SlideThe Banyan TreeA Dramatic PerformanceThe RailroadThe Half-way HouseThe Brain Fever BirdThe Coppersmith BirdNightingales and Cue Owls


CHAPTER LVII.

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