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are entirely naked and donā€™t have a rag on ā€™em until theyā€™re ten or twelve. A lot of ā€™em come up to the jinrikishas and called out ā€œoh-hi-oā€ to Josiah, and he shook his head and sez affably:

ā€œNo, bub, Iā€™m from Jonesville.ā€

But the interpreter explained oh-hi-o means good morninā€™; and after that for days Josiah would say to me as soon as I waked up, ā€œOhio,ā€ and wanted to say it to the rest, but I broke it up.

One thing Josiah thought wuz wicked: a Japanese is not allowed to wear whiskers till he is a grandpa, so old bachelors have to go with smooth faces.

Sez Josiah, ā€œWhat if Cousin Zebedee Allen couldnā€™t wear whiskers? Why,ā€ sez he, ā€œhis whiskers are his main beauty, and naterally Zeb is more particular about his looks than if he wuz married. Such laws are wicked and arbitrary. Why, when I courted my first wife, Samantha, my whiskers and my dressy looks wuz what won the day. And I dā€™no,ā€ sez he inquiringly, ā€œbut they won your heart.ā€

ā€œNo,ā€ sez I, ā€œit wuznā€™t them, and heaven only knows what it wuz; I never could tell. Iā€™ve wondered about it a sight.ā€

ā€œWell,ā€ sez he, ā€œI didnā€™t know but it wuz my whiskers.ā€

We passed a number of temples where the people worship. The two principal religions are the Shinto and the Buddhist. The Shinto means, ā€œThe way of the gods,ā€ and they believe that their representative is the Mikado, so of course they lay out to worship him. The Buddhists preach renunciation, morality, duty, and right living. Beinā€™ such a case to cling to Dutyā€™s apron strings I couldnā€™t feel towards 198 the Buddhists as Miss Meechim did. Sez she, ā€œOh, why canā€™t they believe as we do in America? Why canā€™t they all be Episcopalians?ā€

But ā€™tennyrate all religions are tolerated here, and as Arvilly told Miss Meechim when she wuz bewailinā€™ the fact that they wuznā€™t all Episcopals and wuznā€™t more like our country.

Sez Arvilly, ā€œThey donā€™t drownd what they call witches, nor hang Quakers, nor whip Baptists, nor have twenty wives. It donā€™t do for us to find too much fault with the religion of other nations, Miss Meechim, specially them that teaches the highest morality, self-control and self-sacrifice.ā€

Miss Meechim was huffy, but Arvilly drove the arrer home. ā€œGamblinā€™ is prohibted here; you wouldnā€™t be allowed gamble for bed-quilts and afghans at church socials, Miss Meechim.ā€

Miss Meechim wouldnā€™t say a word. I see she wuz awful huffy. But howsumever there are lots of people here who believe in the Christian religion.

We passed such cunning little farms; two acres is called a good farm, and everything seemed to be growinā€™ on it in little squares, kepā€™ neat and clean, little squares of rice and wheat and vegetables.

And Josiah sez, ā€œI wonder what Ury would say if I should set him to transplantinā€™ a hull field of wheat, spear by spear, as they do here, set ā€™em out in rows as we do onions. And I guess heā€™d kick if I should hitch him onto the plow to plow up a medder, or onto the mower or reaper. I guess Iā€™d git enough of it. I guess heā€™d give me my come-up-ance.ā€

ā€œNot if he wuz so polite as the Japans,ā€ sez I.

ā€œAnd what a excitement it would make in Jonesville,ā€ sez Josiah, ā€œif I should hitch Ury and Philury onto the mowinā€™ machine. I might,ā€ he continered dreamily, ā€œjust for a change, drive ā€™em into Jonesville once on the lumber wagon.ā€

But heā€™ll forgit it, I guess, and Japan will forgit it too 199 before long. Their tools are poor and fur behind ourn, and some of their ways are queer; such as traininā€™ their fruit trees over arbors as we do vines. Josiah wuz dretful took with this and vowed heā€™d train our old sick no further over a arbor. Sez he, ā€œIf I can train that old tree into a runninā€™ vine I shall be the rage in Jonesville.ā€

But he canā€™t do it. The branches are as thick as his arm. And I sez, ā€œChildren and trees have to be tackled young, Josiah, to bend their wills the way you want ā€™em to go.ā€ They make a great fuss here over the chrysantheum, and they are beautiful, I must admit. They donā€™t look much like mine that I have growinā€™ in a kag in the east winder.

Their common fruits are the persimmons, a sweet fruit about as big as a tomato and lookinā€™ some like it, with flat black seeds, pears, good figs, oranges, peaches, apples. There is very little poverty, and the poorest people are very clean and neat. Their law courts donā€™t dally for month after month and years. If a man murders they hang him the same week.

But mebby our ways of lingerinā€™ along would be better in some cases, if new evidence should be found within a year or so, or children should grow up into witnesses.

We went into a Japanese house one day. It is made on a bamboo frame, the roof and sides wuz thatched with rye straw, the winders wuz slidinā€™ frames divided into little squares covered with thin white paper. The partitions wuz covered with paper, and movable, so you could if you wanted to make your house into one large room. Josiah told me that he should tear out every partition in our house and fix ā€™em like this. ā€œHow handy it would be, Samantha, if I ever wanted to preach.ā€

And I told him that I guessed our settinā€™ room would hold all that would come to hear him preach, and sez I, ā€œHow would paper walls do with the thermometer forty below zero?ā€ He looked frustrated, he had never thought of that.

The house we went into wuz sixteen feet square, divided into four square rooms. It wuz two stories high, and little 200 porches about two feet wide wuz on each story, front and back. There wuz no chimney; there wuz a open place in the wall of the kitchen to let the smoke out from the little charcoal furnace they used to cook with, and one kettle wuz used to cook rice and fish; no spoons or forks are needed. The doors and frame-work wuz painted bronze color. There wuznā€™t much furniture besides the furnace and tea-kettle that stands handy to make tea at any time. A few cups and saucers, a small clock, a family idol, and a red cushioned platform they could move, high and wide enough for a seat so several can set back to back, is about all that is necessary.

Their floors are covered with a lined straw matting, soft as carpet; they sleep on cotton mats put away in the daytime; their head-rest is a small block of wood about one foot long, five inches wide and eight inches high. A pillow filled with cut rye straw and covered with several sheets of rice paper isnā€™t so bad, though I should prefer my good goose feather pillows. The Japanese are exceedingly neat and clean; they could teach needed lessons to the poorer classes in America.

We one day made an excursion twenty milds on the Tokiado, the great highway of Japan. It is broad and smooth; five hundred miles long, and follers the coast. Part of the way we went with horses, and little side trips into the country wuz made with jinrikishas. Quaint little villages wuz on each side of the road, and many shrines on the waysides. That day we see the famous temple of Diabutsu with its colossal bronze idol. It wuz fifty feet high and eighty-seven feet round. The eyes three feet and a half wide. One thumb is three and a half feet round. He seemed to be settinā€™ on his feet.

A widder and a priest wuz kneelinā€™ in front of this idol. The priest held in one hand a rope and anon he would jerk out melancholy sounds from a big bronze bell over his head. In his other hand he held some little pieces of wood and paper with prayers printed on ā€™em. As he would read ā€™em 201 off he would lay one down on the floor, and the widder would give him some money every time. I thought that wuz jest about where the prayers went, down on the floor; they never riz higher, I donā€™t believe.

Josiah wuz kinder took with ā€™em, and sez he, ā€œHow handy that would be, Samantha, if a man wuz diffident, and every man, no matter how bashful he is, has more or less wood chips in his back yard. Sometimes I feel diffident, Samantha.ā€

But I sez, ā€œI donā€™t want any wooden prayers offered for me, Josiah Allen, and,ā€ sez I, ā€œthat seen shows jest how widders are imposed upon.ā€

ā€œWell,ā€ sez he, ā€œshe no need to dickered with the priest for ā€™em if she hadnā€™t wanted to.ā€

And I did wish that that little widder had known about the One ever present, ever living God, who has promised to comfort the widder, be a father to the orphan, and wipe away all tears.

But the Sunrise Land is waking up, there is a bright light in the East:

In the beauty of the lilies Christ is born acrost the sea,

With a glory in his bosom that transfigures you and me.

With the sweet gentleness and amiable nater of the Japans what will not the divine religion of the Lord Jesus do for them? It will be plantinā€™ seed in good ground that will spring up a hundredfold.

I spoze that it wuz on Robert Strongā€™s account (he is acquainted with so many big Chinamen and Japans) that we wuz invited to a elegant tiffen in one of the Mikadoā€™s palaces at Tokio. The grounds wuz beautiful, the garden containing some of the most beautiful specimens of trees, trained into all shapes, some on ā€™em hundreds of years old, but havinā€™ their faculties yet, and growinā€™ jest as they wuz told to, and all the beautiful flowers and shrubs that Japan can boast of, 202 and palm trees, bananas, giant ferns and everything else beautiful in the way of vegetation.

The palace is one of the oldest in Tokio. It wuz only one story high, but the rooms wuz beautiful. The fan chamber wuz fifty feet square, the walls covered with fans of every size and shape and color. The only furniture in this room wuz two magnificent cabinets of lacquer work and four great, gorgeous bronze vases.

The tiffen wuz gin by a high official; there wuz fifty guests. The hour was two in the afternoon. There wuz ten ladies presentā€“ā€“two beautiful Japanese ladies, dressed in the rich toilette of Japan. The lunch cards wuz little squares of scarlet paper, with black Japanese writing. Josiah looked at the card intently and then whispered to me:

ā€œHow be I goinā€™ to know what I am eatinā€™ from these duck tracks?ā€

But I whispered, ā€œLeā€™s do what the rest do, Josiah, and weā€™ll come out all right.ā€

But we had a dretful scare, for right whilst we wuz partakinā€™ of the choice Japan viands a loud rumblinā€™ sound wuz hearn, and I see even as we rushed to the door the timbers of the ceilinā€™ part and then come together agin and the great bronze chandelier swing back and forth. My pardner ketched hold of my hand and hurried me along on a swift run and wouldnā€™t stop runninā€™ for some time. I tried to stop him, for I got out of breath, but he wuz bound to run right back to Yokohama, thirty miles off. But I convinced him that we would be no safer there, for you canā€™t argy with earthquake shocks and tell when theyā€™re cominā€™, they are very common in all parts of Japan. After the first heavy shock there wuz two lighter ones, and that ended it for that time. But though we all went back to the table, I canā€™t say that I took any great comfort in the tiffen after that.

A blow has fell onto me I wuznā€™t prepared for. We found a number of letters waitinā€™ for us here at the tarven that Robert Strong had ordered to be forwarded there. It 203 seemed so good, whilst settinā€™ under a palm tree, seeinā€™ jinrikishas go by, and Chinas and Japans, to set and read about the dear ones in Jonesville, and the old mair and Snip.

The letters wuz full of affection and cheer, and after readinā€™ ā€™em I gathered ā€™em up and sought my pardner to exchange letters with him, as I wuz wont to do, and I see he had quite a few, but what was my surprise to see that man sarahuptishushly and with a guilty look try to conceal one on ā€™em under his bandanna. And any woman will know that all his other letters wuz as dross to me compared to the one he was hidinā€™. I will pass over my argymentsā€“ā€“andā€“ā€“and words, before that letter

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