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Title: The Art of Perfumery
And Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants
Author: G. W. Septimus Piesse
Release Date: July 28, 2005 [EBook #16378]
Language: English
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The Art OF PERFUMERY, AND METHOD OF OBTAINING THE ODORS OF PLANTS.
From the rafters of the roof of the Drying House are suspended in bunches all the herbs that the grower cultivates. To accelerate the desiccation of rose leaves and other petals, the Drying House is fitted up with large cupboards, which are slightly warmed with a convolving flue, heated from a fire below.
The flower buds are placed upon trays made of canvas stretched upon a frame rack, being not less than twelve feet long by four feet wide. When charged they are placed on shelves in the warm cupboards till dry.
THE ART OF PERFUMERY, AND METHOD OF OBTAINING THE ODORS OF PLANTS, WITH INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMES FOR THE HANDKERCHIEF, SCENTED POWDERS, ODOROUS VINEGARS, DENTIFRICES, POMATUMS, COSMETIQUES, PERFUMED SOAP, ETC. WITH AN APPENDIX ON THE COLORS OF FLOWERS, ARTIFICIAL FRUIT ESSENCES, ETC. ETC.PHILADELPHIA:
LINDSAY AND BLAKISTON.
1857.
PRINTED BY C. SHERMAN & SON,
19 St. James Street.
By universal consent, the physical faculties of man have been divided into five senses,âseeing, hearing, touching, tasting, and smelling. It is of matter pertaining to the faculty of Smelling that this book mainly treats. Of the five senses, that of smelling is the least valued, and, as a consequence, is the least tutored; but we must not conclude from this, our own act, that it is of insignificant importance to our welfare and happiness.
By neglecting to tutor the olfactory nerve, we are constantly led to breathe impure air, and thus poison the body by neglecting the warning given at the gate of the lungs. Persons who use perfumes are more sensitive to the presence of a vitiated atmosphere than those who consider the faculty of smelling as an almost useless gift.
In the early ages of the world the use of perfumes was in constant practice, and it had the high sanction of Scriptural authority.
The patrons of perfumery have always been considered the most civilized and refined people of the earth. If refinement consists in knowing how to enjoy the faculties which we possess, then must we learn not only how to distinguish the harmony of color and form, in order to please the sight, the melody of sweet sounds to delight the ear; the comfort of appropriate fabrics to cover the body, and to please the touch, but the smelling faculty must be shown how to gratify itself with the odoriferous products of the garden and the forest.
Pathologically considered, the use of perfumes is in the highest degree prophylactic; the refreshing qualities of the citrine odors to an invalid is well known. Health has often been restored when life and death trembled in the balance, by the mere sprinkling of essence of cedrat in a sick chamber.
The commercial value of flowers is of no mean importance to the wealth of nations. But, vast as is the consumption of perfumes by the people under the rule of the British Empire, little has been done in England towards the establishment of flower-farms, or the production of the raw odorous substances in demand by the manufacturing perfumers of Britain; consequently nearly the whole are the produce of foreign countries. However, I have every hope that ere long the subject will attract the attention of the Society of Arts, and favorable results will doubtless follow. Much of the waste land in England, and especially in Ireland, could be very profitably employed if cultivated with odor-bearing plants.
The climate of some of the British colonies especially fits them for the production of odors from flowers that require elevated temperature to bring them to perfection.
But for the lamented death of Mr. Charles Piesse,[A] Colonial Secretary for Western Australia, I have every reason to believe that flower-farms would have been established in that colony long ere the publication of this work. Though thus personally frustrated in adapting a new and useful description of labor to British enterprise, I am no less sanguine of the final result in other hands.
Mr. Kemble, of Jamaica, has recently sent to England some fine samples of Oil of Behn. The Moringa, from which it is produced, has been successfully cultivated by him. The Oil of Behn, being a perfectly inodorous fat oil, is a valuable agent for extracting the odors of flowers by the maceration process.
At no distant period I hope to see, either at the Crystal Palace, Sydenham, at the Royal Botanical Gardens, Kew, or elsewhere, a place to illustrate the commercial use of flowersâeye-lectures on the methods of obtaining the odors of plants and their various uses. The horticulturists of England, being generally unacquainted with the methods of economizing the scents from the flowers they cultivate, entirely lose what would be a very profitable source of income. For many ages copper ore was thrown over the cliffs into the sea by the Cornish miners working the tin streams; how much wealth was thus cast away by ignorance we know not, but there is a perfect parallel between the old miners and the modern gardeners.
Many readers of the "Gardeners' Chronicle" and of the "Annals of Pharmacy and Chemistry" will recognize in the following pages much matter that has already passed under their eyes.
To be of the service intended, such matter must however have a book form; I have therefore collected from the above-mentioned periodicals all that I considered might be useful to the reader.
To Sir Wm. Hooker, Dr. Lindley, Mr. W. Dickinson, and Mr. W. Bastick, I respectfully tender my thanks for the assistance they have so freely given whenever I have had occasion to seek their advice.
Contents. Preface SECTION I. INTRODUCTION AND HISTORY.Perfumes in use from the Earliest PeriodsâOrigin lost in the Depth of its AntiquityâPossibly derived from Religious ObservancesâIncense or Frankincense burned in Honor of the DivinitiesâEarly Christians put to Death for refusing to offer Incense to IdolsâUse of perfumes by the Greeks and RomansâPliny and Seneca observe that some of the luxurious People scent themselves Three Times a DayâUse of Incense in the Romish ChurchâScriptural Authority for the use of PerfumeâComposition of the Holy PerfumeâThe Prophet's SimileâSt. EphrĂŠm's WillâFragrant TapersâConstantine provides fragrant Oil to burn at the AltarsâFrangipanniâTrade in the East in Perfume DrugsâThe Art of Perfumery of little Distinction in EnglandâSolly's admirable Remarks on Trade SecretsâBritish Horticulturists neglect to collect the Fragrance of the Flowers they cultivateâThe South of France the principal Seat of the ArtâEngland noted for LavenderâSome Plants yield more than one PerfumeâOdor of Plants owing to a peculiar Principle known as Essential Oil or Otto
SECTION II.Consumption of PerfumeryâMethods of obtaining the Odors:âExpression, Distillation, Maceration, Absorption
SECTION III.Steam-StillâMacerating PanâOttos exhibited at the Crystal Palace of 1851âSimple Extracts:âAllspice, Almond, Artificial Otto of Almonds, Anise, Balm, Balsams, Bay, Bergamot, Benzoin, Caraway, Cascarilla, Cassia, Cassie, Cedar, Cedrat, Cinnamon, Citron, Citronella, Clove, Dill, Eglantine or Sweet Brier, Elder, Fennel, Flag, Geranium, Heliotrope, Honeysuckle, Hovenia, Jasmine, Jonquil, Laurel, Lavender, Lemon-grass, Lilac, Lily, Mace, Magnolia, Marjoram, Meadow-sweet, Melissa, Mignonette, Miribane, Mint, Myrtle, Neroli, Nutmeg, Olibanum, Orange, Orris, Palm, Patchouly, Sweet Pea (Theory of Odors), Pineapple, Pink, Rhodium (Rose yields two Odors), Rosemary, Sage, Santal, Sassafras, Spike, Storax, Syringa, Thyme, Tonquin, Tuberose, Vanilla, Verbena or Vervain, Violet, Vitivert, Volkameria, Wallflower, Winter-greenâDuty on Essential OilsâQuantity importedâStatistics, &c.,
SECTION IV. ANIMAL PERFUMES.AmbergrisâCivetâMusk
SECTION V.Smelling Salts:âAmmonia, Preston Salts, Inexhaustible Salts, Eau de Luce, Sal Volatile Acetic Acid and its Use in Perfumery.âAromatic Vinegar, Henry's Vinegar, Vinaigre Ă la Rose, Four Thieves' Vinegar, Hygienic Vinegar, Violet Vinegar, Toilet Vinegar, Vinaigre de Cologne
SECTION VI. BOUQUETS AND NOSEGAYS.Proposed Use of the Term "Otto" to denote the odoriferous Principle of Plants
Compound Odors:âThe Alhambra PerfumeâThe Bosphorus BouquetâBouquet d'AmourâBouquet des Fleurs du Val d'AndorreâBuckingham Palace BouquetâDĂ©licesâThe Court NosegayâEau de ChypreâThe Empress Eugenie's NosegayâEsterhazyâEss BouquetâEau de Cologne. (French and English Spirit.) Flowers of ErinâRoyal Hunt BouquetâExtract of FlowersâThe Guards' BouquetâItalian NosegayâEnglish Jockey ClubâFrench Jockey Club. (Difference of the Odor of English and French Perfumes due to the Spirit of Grape and Corn Spirit.) A Japanese PerfumeâThe Kew Garden NosegayâMillefleursâMillefleurs et LavenderâDelcroix's LavenderâMarechaleâMousselaineâBouquet de MontpellierâCaprice de la ModeâMay FlowersâNeptune, or Naval NosegayâBouquet of all NationsâIsle of Wight BouquetâBouquet du RoiâBouquet de la Reine VictoriaâRondeletia. (Odors properly blended produce new Fragrances.) Bouquet RoyalâSuaveâSpring FlowersâTulip NosegayâThe Wood VioletâWindsor Castle BouquetâYacht Club Nosegay
SECTION VII.The ancient Perfumes were only odoriferous GumsâAbstaining from the Use of Perfumes a Sign of HumiliationâThe Vase at Alnwick CastleâSachet PowdersâSachet au ChypreâSachet Ă la FrangipanneâHeliotrope SachetâLavender SachetâSachet Ă la MarĂ©chaleâMousselaineâMillefleurâPortugal SachetâPatchouly SachetâPot PourriâOlla PodridaâRose SachetâSantal-wood SachetâSachet (without a name)âVervain SachetâVitivertâViolet SachetâPerfumed LeatherâRussia LeatherâPeau d'EspagneâPerfumed Letter PaperâPerfumed Book-markersâCassolettes, and Printaniers
PastilsâThe CenserâVase in the British MuseumâMethod of using the CenserâIncense for Altar ServiceâYellow PastilsâDr. Paris's PastilsâPerfumer's PastilsâPiesse's PastilsâFumigationâThe Perfume LampâIncandescent PlatinumâEau Ă BrulerâEau pour BrulerâFumigating PaperâPerfuming SpillsâOdoriferous Lighters
SECTION VIII. PERFUMED SOAP.Perfumed SoapâAncient Origin of SoapâEarly Records of the Soap Trade in EnglandâPerfumers not Soap MakersâRemeltingâPrimary SoapsâCurd SoapâOil SoapâCastile SoapâMarine SoapâYellow SoapâPalm SoapâExcise Duty on SoapâFig Soft SoapâNaples Soft SoapâThe remelting ProcessâSoap cuttingâSoap stampingâScented Soaps
Almond SoapâCamphor SoapâHoney SoapâWhite Windsor SoapâBrown Windsor SoapâSand SoapâFuller's Earth SoapâScenting Soaps HotâScenting Soaps ColdâColored Soaps:âRed, Green, Blue, Brown SoapsâOtto of Rose SoapâTonquin Musk SoapâOrange-Flower SoapâSantal-wood SoapâSpermaceti SoapâCitron SoapâFrangipanne SoapâPatchouly SoapâSoft or Potash SoapsâSaponaceous Cream of AlmondsâSoap PowdersâRypophagon SoapâAmbrosial CreamâTransparent soft SoapâTransparent hard SoapâMedicated SoapsâJuniper Tar SoapâIodine SoapâSulphur SoapâBromine SoapâCreosote SoapâMercurial SoapâCroton Oil SoapâTheir Use in Cutaneous Diseases
SECTION IX. EMULSINES.Form Emulsions or Milks when mixed with WaterâProne to ChangeâAmandineâOlivineâHoney and Almond PasteâPure Almond PasteâAlmond MealâPistachio Nut MealâJasmine EmulsionâViolet Emulsion
SECTION X. MILKS OR EMULSIONS.Liebig's notice of Almond MilkâMilk of RosesâMilk of AlmondsâMilk of ElderâMilk of DandelionâMilk of CucumberâEssence of CucumberâMilk of Pistachio NutsâLait VirginalâExtract of Elder Flowers
SECTION XI. COLD CREAM.ManipulationâCold Cream of AlmondsâViolet Cold CreamâImitation Violet Cold CreamâCold Cream of various FlowersâCamphor Cold CreamâCucumber Cold CreamâPiver's Pomade of CucumberâPomade DivineâAlmond BallsâCamphor BallsâCamphor PasteâGlycerine BalsamâRose Lip SalveâWhite Lip SalveâCommon Lip Salve
SECTION XII. POMADES AND OILS.Pomatum, as its name implies, originally made with ApplesâScentless GreaseâEnfleurage and Maceration processâAcacia, or Cassie PomadeâBenzoin Pomade and OilâVanilla Oil and PomadeâPomade called Bear's GreaseâCircassian CreamâBalsam of FlowersâCrystallized OilsâCastor Oil PomatumâBalsam of NeroliâMarrow CreamâMarrow PomatumâViolet PomatumâPomade Double, MillefleursâPomade Ă la HeliotropeâHuile AntiqueâPhilocomeâPomade HongroiseâHard or Stick PomatumsâBlack and Brown Cosmetique
SECTION XIII. HAIR DYES AND DEPILATORIES.Painting the Face universal among the Women of EgyptâKohhl, the Smoke of Gum Labdanum, used by the Girls of Greece to color the Lashes and Sockets of the EyeâTurkish Hair DyeâRastikopetra DyeâLitharge DyeâSilver DyeâHair Dyes, with MordantâInodorous DyeâBrown and Black Hair DyeâLiquid Lead DyeâDepilatory, Rusma
SECTION XIV. ABSORBENT POWDERS.Violet PowderâRose Face PowderâPerle PowderâLiquid Blanc for Theatrical UseâCalcined TalcâRouge and Red PaintsâBloom of RosesâCarmine Toilet RougeâCarthamus FlowersâPink SaucersâCrĂ©pon Rouge
SECTION XV. TOOTH POWDERS AND MOUTH WASHES.Mialhi's Tooth PowderâCamphorated ChalkâQuinine Tooth PowderâPrepared CharcoalâPeruvian Bark PowderâHomĆopathic ChalkâCuttle-Fish PowderâBorax and MyrrhâFarina Piesse's DentifriceâRose Tooth PowderâOpiate PasteâViolet Mouth WashâEau BototâBotanic StypticâTincture of Myrrh and BoraxâMyrrh with Eau de CologneâCamphorated Eau de Cologne
SECTION XVI. HAIR WASHES.Rosemary Hair WashâAthenian WaterâVegetable or Botanic Hair WashâAstringent Extract of Roses and RosemaryâSaponaceous WashâEgg JulepâBandolinesâRose and Almond Bandoline
Contents of Appendix.
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